Some cosmetic ingredients are all the rage and are all the rage for years, but then cosmetovigilance reveals certain problems or toxicological requirements come into play, the regulatory axe falls, and the “flagship” ingredient becomes the one that absolutely must be boycotted. The first episode in this series by Estelle Dehier, from Labosphère: salicylic acid.
What is salicylic acid used for?
Salicylic acid is widely used in formulations, with a special mention for dermocosmetics.
It is used as an active ingredient in products for problem skin prone to acne, for its purifying, cleansing and anti-inflammatory properties.
It is also added to even out the complexion thanks to its exfoliating and (slightly) keratolytic action.
Depending on the dose used, it can also be used as a preservative in cosmetic products. Even if, technically, it is not a simple active ingredient to use.
Is it regulated?
Yes, salicylic acid is regulated in Annexes III/98 and V/3 of European Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, in different ways, depending on:
• Its use (active or preservative)
• The area of use
• The age group
It is also one of the five preservatives authorised by the COSMOS standard.
Internationally, salicylic acid is subject to concentration restrictions depending on the product. It is generally banned for use on children under the age of 3. In the USA, the use of salicylic acid must be associated with a UV filter and mandatory labelling.
Why is it in the news?
A product containing salicylic acid can be considered a ‘sensitive’ product. It can cause …
