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Thursday, February 11, 2016Focus on French Launches

Everything is good in the tree!

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Bark, soft wood, leaves, buds, sap, resin… sylvotherapy takes possession of cosmetic care. Whole ranges are dedicated to it, while others use them in a complementary way. With the tree, cosmetics finds its roots..;

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~ 7 minutes

The best known is the maritime pine of the Landes. From its seeds, a precious anti-aging and restructuring oil with powerful antioxidant powers is extracted. Maritime pine seed oil is obtained by first cold pressing, without solvent. Decanted then filtered, it is then conditioned under nitrogen. This virgin oil with a natural balsamic scent requires neither deodorization nor refining. It is naturally rich in vitamin E, which gives it good oxidative stability. It takes 150,000 seeds to get a litre of oil.

French brands such as Océopin (certified organic) or Ixxi are dedicated to Landes maritime pine. Océopin has also developed a plant extract from maritime pine seeds with an exceptional polyphenol content (twice that of most plant extracts), obtained from natural solvents and using an extractive process adapted to preserve all the native constituents of the seed. As well as esters, a vegetable butter and bark powder (from the grinding of maritime pine seed cakes), a true vegetable exfoliation experience. The latest creations to date for Océopin, the first surgras soaps enriched with maritime pine seed oil, associated with the immortal dunes. Their creamy foam cleanses while respecting the epidermis (even sensitive). Their delicate fragrance evokes the smell of Cap Ferret pine forests (Organic Surgras Soap, 150 g, 15 € or 50 g Soaps, sold in packs of two, 12 €).

The power of the Landes de Gascogne pine also fascinates the Ixxi brand (distributed in pharmacies). The company is also involved in the reforestation of the pines of the Landes, by being a partner of the association"Un enfant peut sauver un arbre". Pine polyphenols or OPC (Oligo-proanthocyanidins), this time extracted from maritime pine bark, come only from the Landes forest, managed and renewed with respect for natural resources. 1000 kilos of pine bark = 1 kilo of OPC PIN. According to the brand, their antioxidant properties are 30 times higher than those of vitamin C. " OPC PIN neutralises free radicals, responsible for skin ageing. It has a dermo-protective action by inhibiting MMP-1, an enzyme that degrades collagen fibers. These polyphenols stimulate collagen synthesis and also have a strong repairing power. ". This spring, the brand is exploring body care with two new products to come (from April 18): Bodyxime Exfoliating Gel for New Skin (200 ml, 19 €), vegetable exfoliants (pine bark and wood cellulose) and Bodyxime Fondant Hydra Firming Milk (200 ml, 29 €), a sugar complex made from wood and firming polyphenols.

Finally, at Natura Siberica, let us mention the Taïga Hand Cream for daily skin protection with Siberian Pine (75 ml, 4.99 €, at Monoprix). Labelled Icea and Cosmos Natural, it strengthens the skin and protects it from wind, dryness and cold.

Finally, you can find Marsh pine and Japanese elm that regulate sebum for a mattifying result in Qiriness's Purifying Wrap, a single-dose fabric mask for combination and oily skin with dilated pores (€3.90 each).

Finally, in May, Garnier will release in its Ultra-Soft range a Body and Hair Shower with traditional soap and maritime pine (250 ml, 2.39 € or 500 ml, 3.79 €), for adults and children.

A newcomer dedicated to oak

Symbol of strength and longevity, oak is rot-proof and organically very pure. It improves with age and has just revealed exceptional beauty powers. Antioxidants, regenerating, stimulating, its previously unsuspected benefits are now combined for the first time in a new anti-aging skincare brand distributed in pharmacies: La Chênaie, created by Sylvain Charlois. For six generations, the Charlois family has worked in oak. Woodcutters then groupers and finally coopers on the Burgundy territory, she knows nothing of her powers, thanks to her laboratory of analysis of wood compounds. His passion and rigour have thus made it possible to create a unique concentrate from the age-old tree. Quercus Petraea . From bark, soft wood and leaves, this patented oak extract offers a global anti-aging action that is antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and firming (anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase). It restarts hyaluronic acid synthesis, as well as collagen production and attacks oxidative degradation. Its performance has been proven in vitro and in vivo (CERCO). Among the seven anti-ageing skincare products that have just been released are the Supreme Anti-Ageing Serum (30 ml, 69 €), star of the range, the Eye Smoothing Cream and its zamac metal tip (15 ml, 39 €), the Day Youth Cream (50 ml, 49 €) or the Night Fortifying Cream (50 ml, 49 €), which, in addition to the oak extract, contains a silk tree extract to smooth wrinkles and reduce signs of fatigue.

The beech tree: tree of eternal youth

Genuine embryos of plant life, tree buds contain a rich and varied energy reserve: flavonoids, peptides and phytostimulines which make it possible to pass from the dormant state to the hatching by stimulating cellular metabolism. One of the most used is the beech bud which boosts the oxygenation of cells, reduces the depth of wrinkles, improves skin hydration and ensures a lasting smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, by reinforcing the epidermal mesh.

This active ingredient from gemmotherapy (plant bud properties) can be found in Esthederm Lift & Repair Baume Absolu Repulp (50 ml, 85 €), Nutrilogie Nuit Soin intense et nourrissant pour les peaux secches de Vichy (50 ml, 17.50 €) or Repulpant Mask Bioconcentré Activateur de Jeunesse d'Absolution, certified organic (50 ml, 36 €).

As for Proxylane™, the star molecule of the L'Oréal group (found at Lancôme, Biotherm, Vichy, L'Oréal Paris…), this patented natural sugar (xylose) also comes from beech using a green chemistry process. It has proven its effectiveness on wrinkles, dryness and sagging skin.

Among the latest novelties where it appears in high dosage, the entire post-menopause range Neovadiol Vichy, including Neovadiol Night (50 ml, 34 €).

Provencal or exotic woods

One can still quote the sap of the olive tree which repairs the damaged hair in the mask capillary Le Petit Marseillais (Mask Protection & Repair with the sap of Olivier & Acacia milk, 300 ml, 5,45 €), a totum of desert date tree (seeds, leaves and oil), African tree with lightening virtues present in the Night care anti-aging and anti-brown spots, face and hands of Heuliad (50 ml, 49 €), Sequoia extract firming Hormeta High Redefinition Lift Fluid (30 ml, 139 €), Dragon Blood extract resin collected in the Amazonian forest, used by tribes for its powers to stimulate collagen (in Immortal Express Shot de Garancia, 15 ml, 58 €).

You can also find Commiphora Mukul resin in a Clinic treatment (Smart Repair Care Oil, 30 ml, 40 € or 50 ml, 72 €), as well as in the entire Infinité de Cinq Mondes global anti-ageing range (Infinité Cream, 50 ml, 143 € ; Infinité Eyes and Lips Concentrate, 15 ml, 92 € ; Infinité Balm, 30 ml, 123 €). The resin secreted by this small resinous shrub acts on the sagging of the features and the density of the skin.

Organic harungana extract is also redensifying. This Malagasy healing tree is the active star of the Clarins Multi-Intensive line (latest innovation: the Supra Lift-Remodeling Multi-Intensive Serum, 30 ml, 117 € or 50 ml, 158 €).

White willow leaf extract, regenerating and firming, is one of the sure values used by Sisley in its premium Sisleÿa range. The one that will be available from March 1st does not escape the rule (Sisleÿa L'Intégral Anti-âge day and night, 50 ml, 350 €).

As for Estée Lauder, she chose birch and magnolia bark extracts for their soothing power in Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Repair Mask (pack of four masks 103 €, 28 € each mask).

Ariane Le Febvre

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