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Friday, December 2, 2016Focus on French Launches

Hand care: latest innovations

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Spray microemulsion, enzymatic scrub, night creams, serums, cutting-edge anti-aging creams, refined packaging… the hand care offering is more and more sophisticated. And if anti-aging takes the lion’s share, other products also prove highly inventive. Obviously, the cosmetics industry has taken winter in hand!

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Anti-aging care

A real UFO in cosmetology, Néomist, an anti-aging and anti-dark spot cream-serum hand formula (30ml, €75) is the first liquid hand spray. It is ideal for those of you (it should attract both men and women) who cannot stand the presence of cosmetics residues on their hands. Highly sophisticated as a formula (hyaluronic acid, arbutin, Karitene – one of the many components of shea butter – glycosaminoglycans, polymers, phospholipids, ceramides, vitamins A, E, and F, phytosterols, essential fatty acids…), this microemulsion instantly penetrates the skin, leaving nothing behind, and any tightening sensation miraculously disappears! Free from nanoparticles, the microdroplets it diffuses (Ultradrops®, a process patented by the brand) apply their content on the skin.

In February, Nuxe will launch the Nuxuriance Anti-Dark Spot & Anti-Aging Hand Cream Ultra (75ml, €22) with Bi-Florales® cells of saffron and bougainvillea, a peach-coloured gel-balm with a double expertise: anti-aging and anti-dark spot. Encapsulating the rejuvenating molecules of saffron flowers in bougainvillea native cells offers a targeted, continuous action for enhanced efficacy. The saffron flowers are dried, crushed, macerated, and then filtered to extract their active saffron flower vegetable extract, which is extremely rich in polysaccharides and polyphenols. Then, the extract is incubated for 12 to 48 hours under strict conditions with bougainvillea vegetable cells. As they are perfectly biocompatible, not only do they play the role of a vehicle, but they are also renowned for their richness in actives (21 amino acids, 14 fatty acids, 6 vitamins, 9 trace elements…). Thanks to this innovation inspired from the ‘slow release’ mode of action of drugs, these vegetable cells continuously release their active content for 12 hours. As for the white crocus extract, it acts on the melanin. Rich in kaempferol, a flavonoid which blocks the copper ions essential to the correct functioning of tyrosinase, it reduces the activity of this key enzyme in melanogenesis to reduce dark spots. Ultimately, the olive leaf extract rich in oleuropein, a polyphenol with a high antioxidant power, reduces the formation of lipofuscin, a yellowish cell pigment responsible for the particularly ugly brown colour on our hands. After only four weeks, dark spots are visibly brightened (dermatological scores) and hands look younger (use test under dermatological control on 22 volunteers after one month): the skin is smoothed, depuffed, and plumped.

Carita has developed the highly luxurious Replumping Anti-Age Spot Serum Genesis of Youth for Hands in the Progressif Lift Fermeté range (50ml, €85), a global anti-aging serum with an SPF15 composed of Inca Inchi oil, LHA (Lipo-Hydroxy Acid), and anti-dark spot vitamin CG.

Whole ranges just for hands

Dr Pierre Ricaud has just released a new Jeunesse des Mains range, including a Restoring Hand Serum (12ml, €16), which combines the biological peeling effect of glycolic acid and an intense moisturizing action (urea, glycerine).
The Age-Spot Correcting Hand Cream (75ml, €17) smooths the skin and boasts an anti-dark spot and redensifying action thanks to genistein (soya active protein).
As for the Age Spot Correcting Repairing Night Hand Balm (50ml, €12), it is nourishing, regenerating, and anti-dark spot. This night care balm based on vitamin PP and lactic acid enhances cell renewal by stimulating the skin’s biological exfoliating process.

Now, among organic (non-certified) cosmetics brands, Hérôme Organic has just come out: six products for hand and nail care, including an Organic Cream for hands with regenerating apple stem cells (78ml, €16.50), and a healing, anti-dark spot Organic Oil with eight natural oils for very dry skins (30ml, €21.90).

More standard hand products, but with their own originality

Never behind when it comes to trends, Alessandro International launches the Micro Peel scrub (100ml, €14.95), one of the very first enzymatic and chemical hand scrubs. Free from any grain, it contains a complex of fruit acids and enzymes that smooth the skin texture.
The brand has also developed another innovation: a protective fluid based on silk and myrrh extracts that can be washed up to ten times (Silkygloves, 30ml, €15.95).

In the field of cosmetotextile, which may seduce those of you who wash their hands all the time (medical or aesthetics trades…), these fine gloves can be worn on a daily basis like standard gloves (or under gloves) and make it easier to go through winter serenely: Gants Hydra + Lytess Cosmetotextile Nourishing Care, €17.90 (one colour: black). Compatible with touch screens, they instantly diffuse their nourishing, repairing actives (fatty acids, vitamin E, shea butter, natural oils…) and are machine washable at 30 °C (the integrated microcapsules start disappearing after 30 washing cycles).

Lastly, it is worth mentioning Eos’s funny packaging with their ergonomic design. The brand, which differentiates itself with the look of their products (we all remember their round lip balms), has chosen a pretty pastel pebble (sky blue for fresh flowers, pale green for cucumber, baby pink for berry flowers) for hand creams, keeping the same ‘soft touch’, velvety skin feel (Eos Hand Creams, 44ml, €5.90 at Nocibé’s). As for the formulas, it is all about naturalness with shea butter, gluten-free aloe and oats extracts, and vitamins C and E.

Ariane Le Febvre

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