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Thursday, March 31, 2016Focus on French Launches

Solar fragrances

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

A priori, it is a little dangerous to encourage women to perfume themselves in the sun. They may subsequently be tempted to get into the habit with other perfumes that have not been tested non-photosensitizing. But some fragrances, obviously safe, capture the spirit of the most sensual season and allow you to smell good from the morning on holiday. Moreover, it is not forbidden to make the emotion of summer last all year long..;

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Immediate teleportation… Just close your eyes to hear the foam of the waves sparkling on the sand, feel the warm notes of the sun and put your mood in tune with the holidays… The brands (mostly solar products) have managed to express this hedonism and abandonment in their bottles. Directly inspired by the signature fragrances of their sun care products, these fragrances can be worn in the sun, on the beach or in the city, and even throughout the year…

Perfumes and sun, dangerous liaisons…

Of course, these fragrances are designed to be worn in the sun and are obviously guaranteed non-photosensitizing. Thus, citrus essential oils (the most"at risk") have been"stripped" of their furocoumarins (bergapten, etc.). However, they all contain alcohol and brands can repeat that it evaporates very quickly, he still does it by stealing some lipids from the skin… We may not be enthusiastic about the idea of wearing a perfume on the beach (or generally in the sun) on a skin already weakened by UV, which may be even more so by the drying effect of alcohol….

A question of ethics…

Some brands are more careful than others. It is the case of Esthederm which called its first eau de parfum (and the only one, the others are eaux de toilette) One evening in summer (50 ml, 45 €), encouraging women to wear it in the evening, after sun exposure, rather than during the day. But it still respects the skin in the sun (its formula is short and refined for optimal tolerance) and can be applied during the day. In other words, this refined and opulent perfume is a real success! Created by Danielle Maniquant (Floressence, artisanal house of Grasse), it prolongs the pleasure of the sun and offers a real tenacity. After a citrusy flight (lemon, bergamot, clementine, a hint of orange), the voluptuous floral heart blooms. The ylang ylang of Comoros finely vanilla and coconut bring their solar heat. They land on a bouquet of tuberose and Indian jasmine, refreshed with grapefruit flower. In the base notes, the warm sand accord unites with the milky scents of sandalwood, as well as the slightly caramelized inflections of Siam benzoin. With a soft amber trail, as if the sun had permeated the skin. " Our common thread is Esthederm's positive relationship with light and sun, the beauty of the skin in summer, the emblematic fragrance of our sun products, but we are not in favour of promoting perfume on a beach. This perfume was awaited by our customers following the launch of our Sun Oil last summer. "says Isabelle Benoit, the brand's scientific director. In fact, she is the first to use this oil as a skin perfume in summer!

Lancaster named his fragrance The Solar Perfume (Eau de Toilette, 100 ml, 53 €), which clearly implies that it can be worn on a beach, a somewhat more questionable positioning. It is true that the Coty Group's flagship brand is not yet on its first opus, having already launched several editions of summer perfumes in recent years. Presented as". of the sun in a bottle " ( sun bottle ), the novelty, created by Christiane Plos (Firmenich), is inspired (not to say reproduced!) by the popular scent of sunscreen tinted in a large orange pot. Essence of small grain and armful of white flowers (ylang ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley accord…) are"lifted" by aldehydes, very present. The sensation is one of energizing freshness, softened with white musk and heliotrope.

A real trend this summer

Nuxe Sun was missing a last beauty gesture to perfect its range of sun care products. A fragrance that offers the wake of the sun as close to you as possible, all year round. Forgot fixed! More than a scent, the Water Delicious Perfume (Eau de Toilette, 100 ml, 28,50 €) is an intimate experience. Its sparkling harmonies of sweet orange and petit grain reveal the caressing nuances of coconut and tiaré flowers, crowned by lascivious accords of vanilla and musks. Announced as". the first fresh water with solar notes in pharmacies "One of its original features is that it brightens up every season, even in winter.

As for the old Beach Water certified Cosmebio d'Acorelle, renamed Summer water in 2016 (100 ml, 16 €), it is undoubtedly the most delicate (with the heat, some will appreciate…), but not the least pretty! With its vitaminized fruit waters (orange, grapefruit, lemon), moisturizing vegetable glycerin and 100% organic wheat alcohol, it unrolls its discreet music on the skin (artemisia, apple, mint, jasmine and orange blossom heart, balm and vanilla accord). Its 100% natural fragrance is also certified non-photosensitizing.

Finally, let us finish, although it is not guaranteed not photosensitizing, by the Agua Del Sol d'Escada (Eau de toilette, 30 ml, 40 €; 50 ml, 57 €; 100 ml, 71 €), 24th limited summer edition of the brand. Refreshing and fruity, elaborated like a granita (nashi pear and raspberry iced sorbet, citrus zest, pink berries, apricot nectar…), it invites, there again, to enjoy the pleasures of life in the sun.

Ariane Le Febvre

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