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Thursday, May 12, 2016Focus on French Launches

The eyeliner reinvented

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

If he intensifies the glance like no other, he was a little in loss of speed. Many cosmetic creations put it back in the spotlight, to make it easier to use and more natural in make-up results. The eyeliner is making its comeback!

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~ 4 minutes

Stem that pivots, double tip or beveled lead, kohl or vinyl effect, solid formulas that no longer cut or liquid like ink… many brands reinvent it, in good weather as in September. Because there is no season for eyeliner! Even if one could think that it is rather a sophisticated look that lends itself more to winter, on the eve of the Cannes Film Festival, this product so much appreciated by the cinema can also express itself in force! The new packaging ensures manoeuvrability, ergonomics and (easier) layout. One of the most innovative is that of Lancôme (Grandiôse Liner, High Precision flexible Eyeliner, 35 €, three shades, from May 30). Inspired by the techniques of make-up artists who fold their brushes to acquire more agility, the rose brand gives its stem a pivot, which allows it to curve at 35 degrees (and to use it in two positions, straight or curved). The gesture, more flexible, lends itself to all lines, from the most discreet to the most audacious. The opaque formula with an intense matte finish is long lasting (thanks to a latex film that protects the material), smudgeproof (a word that we see more and more and which means"resistant to moisture and sebum") and without transfer. No need for a two-phase make-up remover to remove it, it can be removed with hot water. The Sephora Fingertip Eyeliner (6.95 €, available in five shades) is designed for all those for whom liner is synonymous with missed insured, it is equipped with a hollow hood in which one slips one's finger. The other fingers are folded over the product to ensure good support. Eyeliner well in hand, one then draws the line of a simple gesture. Another option: pencils with a slippery, hyperpigmented gel-like texture (Fine Liner Noir Crayon Yeux Ultra Fine Gel by Marc Jacobs, 22 €, at Sephora ; Crayon Gel Intense by Sephora, 9.95 €, six shades). Also ergonomic, the Maybelline Master Precise Curvy (€9.90) is a liquid eyeliner with a flexible tip.

Double agent

The eye pen with Dior bevelled lead (Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof, 27 €, ten shades) combines the ease of use of a pencil with the glide and intensity of a liquid liner. Used horizontally, the bevel draws a precise line as close as possible to the lashes. Used vertically, it draws a more sophisticated line. Practical, the retractable lead does not cut and keeps its ergonomic shape, application after application. Double tip (pencil lead on one side, silicone tip to blend on the other) and black kohl effect for Estée Lauder's Double Wear Eyeliner Waterproof (€22.50, eight shades). An intense, non-transferable and waterproof formula whose truly senseless hold requires a two-phase eye make-up remover.

Colorful or… white!

In addition to the classic blacks, browns and navy blues, more and more inventive shades in limited editions are appearing in summer and winter, as with mascaras. Like sparkling grey (Dior), copper (Sephora), or ash blue (Superliner Smokissime L'Oréal Paris Red Carpet Collection 2016, 14,90 €, n°105 Blue Smoke, from May 16th). The most original colours can be found at Dior : Magenta for the Diorshow Pro Liner, or lilac and jade for the Dior Addict It-Line (liquid eyeliner, 37 € - Dior Collection summer 2016 Milky Dots). Or at Givenchy which proposes this summer a turquoise and a bright cobalt blue (Khôl Couture Waterproof Eyeliner Retractable, 21,50 €). The LVMH brand persists and signs next autumn with its Liner Vinyl Eyeliner Pinceau Haute Brillance, in indigo blue with purple or silver with metallic highlights (€32.50, N°2 Heroic Blue or N°3 Heroic Silver, Superstellar Autumn-Winter 2016 Collection, from August 22). As for the white eyeliner, after that of Estée Lauder in collaboration with Courrèges with a shiny vinyl finish (Eyeliner Blanc Extrême, 31 €), it perseveres (timidly) this spring with Marc Jacobs (Fine Liner Blanc (Big)eyes, Crayon Gel Yeux, 20,90 €, at Sephora). Applied to the inner corner of the eye, it illuminates the eye, but in continuous line hemming the lashes, it must be recognized that it gives a look of"Martian" and that only the most creative brands and the most women trendy can afford it!

Ariane Le Febvre

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