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Cosmetic Days - Sun protection
Wednesday, January 15, 2014News

An alternative bioassay for mascara irritation

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This study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science describes a novel bioassay, with fast development and inexpensive, alternative to animal models, to predict mascara's ocular irritation. 

Reading time
~ 3 minutes

Abstract

Objective
Mascara is a mild irritant that causes a range of medical problems. Animal models to predict ocular irritation have, however, been questioned at a number of levels, and there is a continued need to develop in vitro testing methods.

Methods
We assess changes in an easily quantifiable attribute, ciliated protozoan growth rate, as a sensitive, sublethal measure. Specifically, we test six, randomly chosen, commercial mascara products against a control (as treatments) and reveal through ANOVA ( n = 6, α = 0.05) significant differences in the specific growth rate to treatments (for both protozoa).

Results
We provide evidence that two easily cultured protozoa ( Paramecium caudatum , Blepharisma japonicum ) should be considered as models to assess ocular irritancy (and possibly cosmetics in general) and establish the groundwork for such studies to be applied at a more commercial level. We do this by developing a bioassay for mascara toxicity and indicate the low cost (after equipment is purchased, on the order of $100s) and the ease of performing such tests (able to be conducted by undergraduate students), as a consideration for their future commercial application. We first examined dose dependence of responses, revealing that there was a need …

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