The pre-jury of U’Cosmetics 2018, which is focused on upcycling this year, gathered in Guingamp, Brittany, on February 8, 2018. The jury members, both industry professionals and players, reviewed the 20 projects presented to nominate the ten that will compete on March 15 on the U’Cosmetics day. The teams were judged according to several criteria like creativity, sensoriality, knowledge of the subject, and execution quality.
After the ten project presentations on D Day, those deemed the most innovative will be rewarded with three awards:
• The cosmetics innovation award
• The innovative concept award
• The Coup de Coeur award

Innovation Formulation Category

Club Season - Montpellier University, France

This range uses upcycling in that it valorizes season fruit co-products: green tomatoes, strawberry achenes, and apricot kernels. The research resulted in a cosmetics range that highlights different upcycled raw materials, while providing varied cosmetics textures. The Club Season ritual quartet is composed of:
• A body & hair shower cream based on apricot kernel oil
• An exfoliating, toning mask based on strawberry achenes
• A moisturizing anti-pollution mask based on an olive and green tomato oily macerate
• A moisturizing night face cream based on strawberry oil and olive and green tomato oily macerate

Coffee me up - National and Kapodistrian University of Athens, Greece

Coffee me up is a line of natural beauty products with antioxidant, anti-pollution key claims with upcycled by-products of the coffee processing and thus exploit this huge waste of silver skins and transform it into something beneficial and beautiful for the skin. The cosmetic line consists of 3 face care products that will protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental stressors, preventing premature signs of aging. Multi-functionality, efficacy and love to the people and the nature, are the soul of this line. In details the products are:
 1. Coffee Me Up MASK: a soft, creamy mask that revitalizes dull, tired skin
 2. Coffee Me Up ESSENCE: a lightweight formula that provides powerful protection against free radicals and brightens the skin

Fleur de gommage - François Rabelais University – Tours, France

This exfoliating modelling flower is composed of a solid shell and a melting heart. The shell melts when it is rubbed on the skin and is to be used as a massage oil. The heart is soft and contains exfoliating grains. It is presented as a single-dose product and the composition is based on upcycled ingredients.

Grape to scrub – Catholic University of the West (UCO) – Guingamp – North Brittan y

Grape to scrub is an exfoliating body stick. Only based on three vegetable butters, this product scrubs the skin thanks to grape marc, an upcycled exfoliating agent derived from vine, and leaves a light, pleasant film after each use. It stands out with its unique stick application that makes it easier to use in the shower, but also with its Cosmos-certifiable, minimalist formula.

Jelly dreams - École Nationale Supérieure de Chimie (ENSCM – School of Chemistry) – Montpellier

Jelly Dreams is meant to be as close as possible to its zero waste and nature preservation values. For example, nut was chosen as an active so it could be valorized as a whole. The range currently features two gels: an exfoliating and a moisturizing gel adapted to all skin types.

Lait X foliant – Catholic University of the West (UCO) – Guingamp, and EME Engineering School – Bruz, Brittany

Lait X Foliant d’Up Adaoz is an exfoliating mask in the form of a citrus-fruit-scented gel intended for both men and women. This product was made with local resources, in particular from the dairy industry, one of the most important activities in the Brittany region. In addition, it is composed of other raw materials like fruit water, glycerine, and fruit pip to obtain a final product with 95% of ingredients derived from upcycling. Lait X Foliant is adapted to normal to combination skins. It offers exfoliating, moisturizing, and complexion-radiance properties for a soft finish and immediate fresh effect.

Innovative Concept Category

Brush Up - Rennes 1 University, France

Brush Up combines a brush and a reservoir containing dry oils to meet men’s beard hydration needs. Brush Up is designed according to the upcycling principle. The brush is made with 100% recycled PET, boar hairs, and wood from sustainably managed forests (FSC). Used on a daily basis, Brush Up stimulates hair growth and hydrates the skin for a dense, soft, and silky beard.

Les 4 Saisons - Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l'Aromatique Alimentaire (ISIPCA – Post-graduate school specialized in perfumery, cosmetics, and food flavour formulation) – Versailles, France

Concept: a natural moisturizing solid cream enriched in plant-biomass-derived actives according to the availability of farming resources during every period of the year. Les 4 Saisons is a solid cream featured in ephemeral paper-based packaging displaying the decoration or fashion upcycling idea of the month. Soaked with perfume, the paper is slowly consumed, diffusing a pleasant scent.

Linove – Rennes 1 University

These flax-based cleansing face pads are rich in actives. Three products are available:
• Linove Rosa: enriched in rose petal extracts
• Linove Musa: enriched in banana peel extracts
• Linove Douceur
They are intended for eco-reponsible consumers, whether men or women, who take care of their skins and would like to gain time, while using fewer products for their beauty routine. Linove is an innovative project based on upcycling. The cleansing pads are based on flax fibres that cannot be used by the textile industry. As for the rose petals and banana peels, they are retrieved from the flower and food industries.

Paradoxe - École Nationale Supérieure d'Agronomie et des Industries Alimentaires (ENSAIA –School specialized in biological and agricultural engineering) - Vandoeuvre-lès-Nancy, France

This product is a disposable night mask to be applied with the reusable packaging. Paradoxe is available for sensitive, normal to combination, and mature skins. The 100% organic and French ingredients release their virtues when they come in contact with warm water. The applicator integrates the upcycling dimension thanks to the biosourced plastic based on downgraded corn or potato starch called PLHT. Paradoxe creates a moisturizing, toning veil which boosts radiance at night for a healthy glow in the morning.

On D Day

On March 15, 2018, the ten teams selected will have four minutes to present their projects with a slide show in front of the attending jury, professionals, and students. Every team will also have a stand to showcase their products/concepts and their project worlds. The jury will then deliberate to choose the winners. The trophies will be awarded following the colloquium round table at the end of the day.

Learn more
• Visit the U'Cosmetics 2018 website .