It was already spotted last summer in Algotherm's highly innovative Algosun solar range with the formulas"O cean respect" This range was sponsored by the television programme Thalassa. Combined with mineral screens (titanium dioxide) and an algae extract porphyra umbilicalis anti UVA, karanja oil ". naturally helps the skin protect itself against sunburn and photo-aging due to lipid oxidation and DNA degradation ", says the brand. You can find it in the Age Protect SPF 20 Body and Hair Sun Care Oil (100 ml, 25 €) or in the Age Protect SPF 50+ Face Sun Cream (50 ml, 30,50 €). It is also well represented in the Esthederm solar line. The brand has already been using it for a few years, particularly in its products for sensitive skin (Intolérances visage soin haute protection, 50 ml, 49 €; Crème solaire antirides Into Repair soin haute protection, 50 ml, 67 €; Adaptasun Peau Sensible soin bronzant crème visage, 50 ml, 47 €; Adaptasun Peau Sensible soin bronzant lait corps, 250 ml, 51 €…). According to the brand," its antioxidant properties work wonders in sun care, but karanja oil, because it absorbs UVB, as does a synthetic filter, is a natural alternative to organic filters. We use it to reduce the quantity, which is particularly interesting for sensitive skin. ".

Treasure oil

Extracted by cold pressing of seeds from the pongolote tree (hence the name of one of its active ingredients: pongamol), karanja oil (INCI : Pongamia glabra seed oil or Pongamol its active fraction) has been traditionally used since time immemorial in Ayurvedic medicine. The pongolot tree grows mainly in India, but also in Southeast Asia, Australia and the USA. This extremely resistant shrub is capable of growing in saline environment or to develop in extreme conditions of dryness. It owes its resistance to its richness in flavonoids and in particular in pongamol and karanjine. It is the latter that make karanja oil a natural sunscreen. It increases photoprotection and broadens the UV spectrum of sunscreen products, especially in UVB. Its photoprotective properties have been evaluated and proven by the Helioscience Laboratory (specialized in sun protection evaluation). An SPF of about 20 was measured in vivo for pure oil. Exceptionally active, it also has anti-aging, soothing and antimicrobial properties. If it is emollient like all oils, its rather rich touch is more nourishing. It can be used on all skin types (from mature to problem skin), as well as on hair. It nourishes them and protects the colour by filtering part of the UV rays. Aroma-Zone offers it pure and organic quality (Organic Karanja Oil, 10 ml, 1.50 € or 100 ml, 9.90 €).

Conventional sunglasses better tolerated

It can be found in the two new sun creams in the Sun Plaisir de Darphin range with the exquisite scent of white flowers (Anti-Aging Sun Care SPF 30 or 50, 50 ml, 29.90 €). Accompanied by hyaluronic acid and avocado and coconut oils, as well as vitamin E, it preserves the youthfulness of the skin. It also appears in the first sun care products of Biologique Recherche (UV face protection SPF 25, 50 ml, 91 €). These are formulated around the "Triple Shield Complex©", a combination of mineral filters (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) and vegetable filters (karanja oil, phytosterols of vegetable origin, protective ester derived from rice) 100% natural and without nanoparticles, which protects the epidermis from UVA and UVB rays, but also from infrared rays, while being photostable and water-resistant.

Organic sunglasses finally cosmetic!

Thanks to the karanja oil, they are no longer whitening and are distinguished by their transparent finish, ensuring a quick and pleasant application. This is the case with Acorelle sunscreens, a Cosmébio certified brand, with its range of sunscreens (Nature Sun), formulated entirely with karanja oil (the first ingredient in the INCI list of ingredients, so it appears in high percentage), mineral screens (titanium dioxide) and a powerful patented antioxidant active ingredient. Without nanoparticles or zinc oxide, deliciously scented with the signature summer scent of the range (almond blossom, frangipani, ylang-ylang and vanilla), it offers high effective and natural protection, but also greater respect for the environment and the oceans (High Protection Sun Gel SPF 30 Acorelle, 30 ml, 24 €; High Protection Sun Oil SPF 30 Acorelle, 75 ml, 28.50 €). And we are ready to bet that karanja oil will emulate and that many sunflowers will bloom in summer 2016 with this really very interesting ingredient…

Ariane Le Febvre