Urban photo-stress is a daily challenge for any skin that comes under regular attack from UV rays and pollution. Recent studies (Ferrara et al., 2020) have established negative synergies between UV rays and pollutants, which generate “OxInflammation” of the skin. When combined, these two stresses cause skin damage by disrupting the redox homeostasis of the tissue. And unfortunately, the consequences don’t stop there: the extrinsic aging of the skin (Vierkötter et al., 2012) also speeds up, causing disruptions to DNA and damage to the skin barrier.

Drawing on its expertise in microalgae and its innovative technology, Microphyt has come up with Renouvellance, an effective and natural biomimetic solution that protects the skin.
Its main advantage lies in the combined action of two powerful compounds produced by a red microalgae species (Porphyridium cruentum): phycoerythrin and exopolysaccharides.

A powerful synergy between marine polymers and pigments

Microphyt identified the incredible adaptability and resilience of Porphyridium cruentum. For over 625 million years, this microalgae has developed natural survival mechanisms, even in the most hostile biotopes exposed to intensive UV radiation, hydric stress and drastic temperature fluctuations. Even today, Porphyridium cruentum continues to evolve in environments with extremely different conditions, from the Negev Desert in Israel to the waters of the Barrier Reef in Australia.

This microalgae contains phycoerythrin, a naturally pink protein pigment that can absorb light energy.
When imagining how Renouvellance would work, Microphyt therefore drew inspiration from the striking structural similarities between phycoerythrin and bilirubin, a molecule found in the human body and which helps to activate our natural defenses.
Porphyridium cruentum is also rich in exopolysaccharides, marine polymers that detoxify the skin by chelating heavy metals on its surface and that wrap cells in a hydration cocoon.

Natural and controlled extraction and production

CAMARGUE, the exclusive, unique technology used by Microphyt, is based on hydro-biomimetic principles. The aim is to reproduce the natural environment and harness the full biological potential of microalgae, while offering a high level of control. In its photobioreactors, Microphyt created the living conditions of the Porphyridium cruentum microalgae by using a two-phase counter-current. This innovative procedure helps to cultivate premium-quality algae biomass and, thanks to a specific and sustainable extraction process, to obtain Renouvellance, a new active ingredient with a standardized phycoerythrin and exopolysaccharide content.

Results visible in clinical, in-vitro and ex-vivo trials

Several scientific trials (clinical, in-vitro and ex-vivo) have proven the effectiveness of Renouvellance:
• After exposure to UVA and UVB radiation, Renouvellance reduces the formation of sunburn cells by 88% on reconstructed human epidermis models
• After exposure to pollutants and UV rays, Renouvellance reduces oxidative stress, protects cells against DNA damage and improves skin homeostasis

**Significance: p<0.01 (99%)
Protocol: test carried out on explants of human skin that were treated for 6 days then exposed to pollutants (ICP standard solution, benzene, xylene, toluene, benzo(a)pyrene and diesel particles) combined with UVA and UVB rays. Measurement of γH2AX expression: molecular marker of DNA damage.

The clinical trial carried out for 28 days in one of China’s most polluted cities, exposed to strong UV radiation, showed that Renouvellance:
• Boosts the barrier function with a significant (9.8%) reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
• Enhances skin luminosity: 2 times greater than the placebo
• Reduces skin redness: 2.8 times more than the placebo
• And ultimately ensures a more uniform and healthier complexion

Protocol: measurement of skin redness development (a* values) assessed by software analysis of standardized photos.

Renouvellance is an effective solution which can combat the effects of climate challenges on our skin. Possible applications include daily skin care, a sunscreen supplement, a radiance booster and an anti-age treatment. It expands the range of new-generation ingredients developed by Microphyt.

Technical data

• INCI: Glycerin, Water, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
• Standard compounds: Phycoerythrin and exopolysaccharides
• Preservative: none
• China: listed in the IECIC and notified on the NMPA platform
• COSMOS: approved
• Naturalness (ISO 16128): 100% natural origin
• Recommended use: 2%
• Appearance: water-soluble pink liquid

For more information
• Contact: contact@microphyt.eu