Due to its multiple functions, it is almost ubiquitous in cosmetics, essential to perfumery, and considered safe for use. And yet, there is danger in the air for ethanol: as several threats are hanging over its future, the whole industry might get a bit dizzy… An afternoon of conferences was organized by the FEBEA (French Federation of Beauty Companies) on June 29, 2015, to provide an update of the situation.
CH₃-CH₂-OH: this chemical formula hides ethanol. Sandrine Milesi, Director of the actives research division at Clarins, summed up its multiple functions to introduce this afternoon of conferences.
Alcohol of all work
Of course, it is mostly an essential in perfumery, as it makes up 70 to 95% of perfume bottles. It solubilizes the perfumed concentrate, which is composed of lipophilic components soluble in alcohol. It is also transparent, easily sprayed, and, due to its volatility, it evaporates after the application so that only the perfumed concentrate is left on the skin.
Active alcohol
It can make up from 0 to 20% of skincare formulas and fulfil various functions:
• Refreshing agent, for example in products for heavy legs
• Texturing agent, to make formulas lighter, as is the case in fluid sun products or aerosols
• Solubilizing agent in sun filters, which are lipophilic ingredients, or other actives like caffeine in slimming products
• Bacteriostatic agent to contribute to preserving the formula, especially to reduce the use of ‘official’ preservatives…
Resourceful alcohol
Ethanol is also widely used to extract active principles. This fluid solvent has a moderate polarity and can be used on its own or in combination with other co-solvents:
• …
