For 20 years (date of the appearance of the first of them, Bioderma's Créaline H2O, 250 ml, 10.50 €, still the best-selling), micellar waters, solutions or lotions have really simplified make-up removal and conquered the most refractory ! Remember here that micelles are invisible microspheres made of surfactants that have a hydrophilic pole and a lipophilic pole. This double affinity explains their cleansing effectiveness: they trap impurities present on the skin's surface (sebum, pollution, make-up…), attracting them like a magnet. A single product, a single gesture to replace the traditional cleansing milk + toning lotion duo. With them, not only is the time saving real, but the cleansing/remover power is there. They remove make-up very quickly and very well. Women love them so much that they use them all year round. The proof, summer is no longer the micellar water season and many of them come out in January! There are now more or less for all tastes and all audiences. Of course, adapted to the type of skin, including for skin with acneic tendency (Purifying micellar water A-Derma, 200 ml, 9.10 €), but today, one can also find anti-aging micellar waters (Filorga, 400 ml, 19,90 €), baby specific (ABCDerm H2O Bioderma micellar solution, 1000 ml, 12 €), or mothers-to-be (Beautanicae rose milky micellar water, 200 ml, 20 €, Cosmébio certified) ! If this jewel of the dermo-cosmetic was born in pharmacy, it is now gaining large distribution in 2015, with sometimes very sharp creations!

Micellar water by skin type is becoming widespread in mass distribution

After launching purifying, anti-drying or soothing micellar waters last year, Mixa Expert Sensitive Skin has recently launched a Physiological Micellar Face & Eye Water with allantoin (400 ml, 5.75 €), as well as Cleansing Wipes with Micellar Milk, still for skin prone to redness (25 wipes, 3.90 €). Thanks to a fleece weave and relief, the latter capture all impurities in a single gesture and especially without having to rub. Formulated with allantoin micellar milk, with a 30% higher impregnation rate than other Mixa wipes, they effectively and gently dissolve make-up and impurities. In January, it will be Garnier's turn to launch its silk fibre-based products (Micellar cleansing wipes, 25 wipes, €3.25), as well as micellar waters adapted to sensitive skin, whether dry, mixed or oily (Micellar All-in-1 Pure Active Solution, 400 ml, €4.80). Diadermine, after launching a High Tolerance Cleansing Micellar Lotion for sensitive skin (200 ml, 4.90 €) in 2012, plans a new one for all skin types from April 2015 (3-in-1 Gentle Micellar Water, 200 ml, 3.90 €). These micellar waters are mostly physiological, i.e. they respect the natural pH of the skin.

More universal formulas for certified organic brands

Even if we are also beginning to see the blossoming of micellar waters by skin type in certified organic cosmetics, as at Cattier (Ondée Merveilleuse, Rebalancing Micellar Lotion for combination to oily skin, 200 ml, 10.95 €), overall, the latest organic innovations are formulated to meet most skin types.µ This is the case of Acorelle, which is enriched with organic floral waters of rose and hamamelis, as well as vegetable glycerin (150 ml, 13.50 €). Or even organic certified micellar water from the Repère Brand (250 ml, 3.70 €, in E. Leclerc hypermarkets).

Micelles of all kinds in pharmacy

Logically, it is in this circuit that we find the most innovations. After launching last spring a Sensifluid Micellar Cleansing Milk with Rhealba® Oatmeal (200 ml, 12 € or 400 ml, 13.30 €), A-Derma has just released, still in the Sensifluid range, the first Waterproof Micellar Eye Gel (100 ml, 9.80 €) for sensitive eyes. With a definite advantage: a make-up removal of waterproof mascara without greasy effect. As for Avène, its cleansing and cleansing micellar Lotion (400 ml, 15.30 € or travel size 100 ml, 5.50 €, from January), will offer a new formula more moisturizing and soothing (presence of a gelled network filled with Avène Thermal Water that deposits a veil of hydration on the skin). No doubt the Pierre Fabre group believes in micelles! Just like L'Oréal which will offer from March at Vichy the first Micellar Cleansing Sublimating Oil, in its Thermal Purity range (125 ml, 14.90 €). It's simple, micelles lend themselves to all textures. Let us bet that we will soon find them in perfumery (the only network where they are almost not represented), with an anti-ageing or radiance connotation…

Ariane Le Febvre