The eyes are the first thing we look at when we see a human face (Barton et al., 2006). When we interact with another person, we search for information in them such as cues revealing emotions (Vaidya et al., 2014). They also heavily weigh in our perception of the beauty of a face, more than any other facial component as reported by Saegusa and Watanabe (2016). Eye contour aging, characterized by sagging and wrinkled eyelids, visible dark circles, enlarged and persistent eye bags, and pronounced tear troughs, therefore heavily influences the perception of face (Anido et al., 2021). These signs make people looking older, tired, sad, or even sick, and hence may affect people’s quality of life (Anido et al., 2021; Vrcek et al., 2016; Roh and Chung, 2009).

The beauty and personal care industry is aware of the high importance of the eye area. Eye care products are must-have of any both makeup and anti-aging care ranges. Anti-aging or now called “well-aging” cosmetic products dedicated to eye contour constitute gentle alternatives to plastic surgeries, helping to reduce eye contour aging signs. These specific products are prized by consumers as shown by a recent consumer study, that has revealed that 43% of French women aged 55 to 64 have used an eye cream in the last 12 months (33% for people aged 16 and over) (Mintel).

Aware of the repercussions of aging of eye contours on the perception of beauty of the face and the quality of life of individuals, Greentech R&D has carefully studied the physiology of the eye contour and the biological pathways involved in the aging of the upper and lower eyelids, as well as those involved in the formation of dark circles, under-eye bags and the tear trough, in order to design a natural active ingredient able to counteract the aging of eye contours in a comprehensive approach.

Gentiopicroside purified from Yellow Gentian Roots: a potent natural molecule to address the eye contour aging

The eye contour aging can be corrected by invasive or minimally-invasive procedures (plastic surgeries, injections, device-based treatments, etc.). However, they present high costs, potential undesirable side effects and requires highly skilled medical practicians due to the complex anatomical and physiological characteristics of the eye area. Topical application of active molecules through the use of cosmetics dedicated to eye care represent a gentle alternative.
Greentech R&D has taken an interest in gentiopicroside, the major bitter-tasting iridoid glysoside found in Gentiana lutea L. roots, identified by Kromayer in 1862 (Kromayer, 1871)(Figure 1). As a bitter molecule, gentiopicroside work as a chemical defensive mechanism against herbivorous insects, which lose appetite, allowing the plant to stay safe (more leaves, photosynthesis, growth and therefore longer life). Gentiopicroside and Gentiana sp. extracts were reported to exert different biological activities with health application: gastro-/hepatoprotective activities, appetite and digestion stimulant, antiviral and anti-inflammatory effects to treat conditions such as rheumatoid arthritis, liver illness, fever, digestive and intestinal disorders (Huang et al., 2020; Zhang et al., 2019). An anti-depressant like effect was also recently reported (Yao et al., 2019).

Figure 1. Gentiopicroside purified from French organic yellow gentian roots

To obtain Myralys, Greentech R&D realized a bio-guided process of extraction and purification of gentiopicroside from organic yellow gentian roots. Thanks to in vitro and ex vivo studies, Greentech scientists proved Myralys targets multiple biological pathways involved in the eye contour aging as summarized below (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Summary of the biological effects of Myralys

Beyond a significant potent stimulating effect of collagen I synthesis by dermal fibroblasts (by +76%), Myralys biological efficacy in neutralizing the UV-induced formation of Advanced Glycation End-Products (with a focus on a major cutaneous AGE: CML) and in protecting dermal elastic fibers from UV-induced degradation/disorganization was striking as proved ex vivo on topically-treated skin explants (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Effet ex vivo de Myralys sur la dégradation de l’élastine et la formation d’AGEs induites par les UV

In vivo benefits: Visible total eye contour rejuvenation in just 14 days

Protocole

A clinical study was performed to confirm the benefits of Myralys at in vivo level. Two groups of 22 healthy volunteers (women and men) aged between 40-65 years were recruited, the first one having droopy & wrinkled upper eyelids and visible dark circles, the second one having both visible eye bags and tear trough. Myralys was introduced at 0.5% in a simple aqueous gel and compared to placebo formula, both applied by volunteers twice a day during 28 days on the eye contour areas (randomized split-face application). Signs of eye contour aging were assessed before application (D0), after 14 days (D14) and 28 days (by DermaTOP® for the upper eyelids, eye bags and tear trough; by Spectrophotometer® for dark circles).

Results: visible and significant in just 14 days

• Myralys lifts the upper eye contour, by smoothing eyelid skin (-18% of average skin roughness at D14 vs D0; p < 0.05) and by lifting eyelid skin folds (-22% of fold height at D14 vs D0; p < 0.01)(Figure 4).

Figure 4. Lifting effect of Myralys on droopy and wrinkled upper eyelids in just 14 days

• Myralys rejuvenates under-eye contour by reducing dark circles redness, decreasing eye bags (-18% volume at D14 vs D0; p < 0.05 vs placebo)(Figure 5), and by smoothing and replumping the tear trough (depth and roughness).

Figure 5. Rejuvenating effect of MYRALYS on the lower eye contour in just 14 days

• The above results were also confirmed after 28 days.

Even at a low concentration of 0.5%, MYRALYS is potent natural solution to provide a total eye contour rejuvenation, for a time-defying look.

Sustainable and local sourcing of Gentiana lutea roots

Yellow gentian Gentiana lutea L., also known as “European cinchona” or “Queen of the mountains”, is a mountain plant symbol of Auvergne and can have an impressive longevity (up to 50-60 years). The roots rich in biologically active bitter molecules are used in different industries such as the food industry (for bitter beverages), cosmetics and healthcare. The use of the roots implies the need to put in place good practices for the sustainable management of this natural resource at each level of the gentian industry. This is the objective of the interprofessional association of the yellow gentian “Gentiana Lutea”, with more than 40 members at national level.

Interested in the use of gentian and as sustainability/CSR has always been a core value of the company, Greentech joined the Gentiana Lutea association in 2021 as part of the development of Myralys. This close partnership allows Greentech to source gentian roots from a network of gentianaires located in the Massif Central and who are also members of the association (gentianaires: in the Massif Central, this is the name traditionally given to people harvesting gentian roots). Moreover, the use of a local natural resource matches with the objective of reducing the carbon footprint of the company (especially the part related to plant transport), and of promoting socio-economic development of the region.

Technical information

• Preservative: none
• China: IECIC listed
• COSMOS: organic certified
• Naturality (ISO 16128): 100% natural origin content
• Recommended use: 0.5%
• Aspect: amber yellow to brown liquid (no visual impact on formula at recommended use)
• Solubility/Use: soluble in water and glycols, suitable for aqueous and emulsified systems
• INCI name: Aqua/Water, Propanediol, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract