Following the publication of a number of concordant scientific studies, the French Academy of Medicine has just issued a press release warning of the health risks associated with straightening hair using products containing glyoxylic acid. The institution is calling for better information for professionals and users, and for cosmetovigilance to be stepped up.
Communiqué from the French National Academy of Medicine
Some procedures outside the field of medicine can have unexpected, sometimes severe, medical impacts. This is the case for some cosmetic interventions that can lead to medical complications.
Hair straightening using chemical agents is a very common hairstyling technique throughout the world and is known as the “Brazilian” procedure. It provides a smooth and shiny appearance of the hair which can last for several months. Originally, formaldehyde was used for this straightening but, classified as carcinogenic, it was replaced, in 2013, by derivatives of glycolic acid (used in facial “peelings”), notably glyoxylic acid. During these procedures, exposure to glyoxylic acid can occur by inhalation or through skin and eye contact.
In the United States, in 1998, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review considered these agents to be “safe” for short-term use, as long as a concentration ≤ 30% and a final formulation pH ≥ 3 are respected, without however justifying these limits.
Recent scientific articles have warned of the health risks linked to the cosmetic use of this molecule.
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