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April 17, 2019 | Congress reports

Essential oils and endocrine disruption pro

With regard to the endocrine system, are essential oils active or disruptive substances? It is to this question that Jean-Marc Giroux, Doctor of Pharmacy, Toxicologist Pharmacologist and also President of Cosmed, wanted to answer during the Cosmetic Days 2018 dedicated to essential oils. Stressing that the issue, in the context of regulatory, scientific, political and media debates on endocrine disruption, deserves clarification and a clear position from the cosmetics industry.

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CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
05 Feb. 2018 Congress reports

Towards responsible mica pro

Mica is a precious ingredient for the cosmetics industry, in particular the makeup segment. But this mineral pigment is often extracted under rather unethical conditions, and using child labour, especially in India. The Responsible Mica Initiative is meant to radically change this situation. Executive Director Fanny Frémont presented its actions ...

 LW © CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
31 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Giving cosmetics a taste to regulate the skin: a new formulation approach? pro

If your tongue is the first organ you think about when it comes to taste perceptions, it is far from being the only body part with taste receptors. You can find them in other organs, but also in tissues, and even in the skin, where they have an influence on ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
23 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Chartres congress 2017: FEBEA’s Q&A (3/3) pro

Just like every year, to conclude the Chartres regulatory congress, the whole FEBEA team (French Federation of Beauty Companies) answered all sorts of questions prepared by the congress participants over the two days of conferences. After questions related to labelling, the INCI list, cosmetovigilance, animal testing, or the declaration of ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
17 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Exposure to cosmetics: how to guarantee beauty professionals’ safety? pro

When doing their job, hairdressers, beauticians and nail prosthetists almost permanently use very specific cosmetic products. These long, repeated exposures can induce risks for their health, so as part of beauty product safety assessment, it is essential to take into account the professional use of certain skincare products and take ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
16 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Chartres congress 2017: FEBEA’s Q&A (2/3) pro

Just like every year, to conclude the Chartres regulatory congress, the whole FEBEA team (French Federation of Beauty Companies) answered all sorts of questions prepared by the congress participants over the two days of conferences. After questions related to labelling, the INCI list, and the subcontractor/prime manufacturer relationships, the ...

LW  © CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
15 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Baby cosmetics: how to make consumers trust them again?

The baby cosmetics sector is no stranger to worrying controversies on product safety. Ingredients are regularly targeted as potentially hazardous, all sorts of advice can be found telling parents to avoid certain products… Within this stressful context, brands usually do not react much and let ‘whistle blowers’ make issues public ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
10 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Time to make cosmetics follow the skin’s rhythm

The principles of chronobiology were revealed more than two centuries ago. But the Nobel Prize in Medicine 2017 is the opportunity to rediscover this science and exploit its knowledge, including in cosmetics. At the 8th annual Jean-Paul Marty Days held in Paris in December, Dr Étienne Soudant, Honorary President of the SFC ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
09 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Chartres congress 2017: FEBEA’s Q&A (1/3) pro

Just like every year, to conclude the Chartres regulatory congress, the whole FEBEA team (French Federation of Beauty Companies) answered all sorts of questions prepared by the congress participants over the two days of conferences. On the agenda of this 2017 edition: labelling and the INCI list, the PIF content, cosmetovigilance, animal ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
03 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

DGCCRF controls: results and plans for 2018 pro

The first day of conferences of the 2017 edition of the Chartres Congress ended with the results of the controls carried out by the DGCCRF (French General Directorate for Competition Policy, Consumer Affairs, and Fraud Control) in 2016. Raphaëlle Bove, Head of the office in charge of products and health benefits, presented them ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
02 Jan. 2018 Congress reports

Passport for Germany (3/3): regulatory framework and market approach pro

With its particular structure and very specific distribution channels, the German cosmetics market has characteristics that need to be perfectly integrated before initiating any export procedure. It is also essential to be familiar with the few regulatory provisions added to the European framework for cosmetics legislation. The Workshop organized on ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
20 Dec. 2017 Congress reports

CMR ingredients: the story of an inevitable death pro

Formaldehyde, Titanium dioxide, Zinc pyrithione, D4 and D5, Salicylic acid… they already are, or are likely to be soon classified as CMRs – with the consequences we all know: a ticket to Annex II of the Cosmetics Regulation, whether they are in the Omnibus Regulation or not… At the 15th annual Perfumes & ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
18 Dec. 2017 Congress reports

Passport for Germany (2/3): German cosmetics distribution pro

Contrary to what we may think, the German cosmetics market is not that easy to understand and penetrate for a French company. At a Workshop on December 1st, 2017, Business France experts described its structure before focusing on the organization of the distribution channels, very specific to Germany. They also gave ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
13 Dec. 2017 Congress reports

REACH: the 2018 deadline and the main sticking points pro

The long registration and evaluation procedure for chemicals placed on the European market is coming to an end, the last deadline being May 31, 2018 for tonnages between 1 and 100 tonnes a year. This date is particularly critical, given the difficulties for registrants and the consequences (and obligations) induced for downstream users. At ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
12 Dec. 2017 Congress reports

Passport for Germany (1/3): the German cosmetics market pro

They are just next door, but they buy and consume cosmetics differently. Their market and distribution systems follow their own rules, and even a few regulatory points can be specific. For a French brand, selling cosmetic products to our German cousins is not that simple. Business France provided all the ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
05 Dec. 2017 Congress reports

European Cosmetics Regulation: 10 topical issues (2/2) pro

The 15th annual Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress held in Chartres, France, last November 15-16, 2017, started with the traditional update on the latest European news, presented from the two different standpoints of the Commission and the industry. After tackling the issues of claims, CMRs, nanomaterials, endocrine disruptors, and preservatives, the speakers ...

05 Dec. 2017 Congress reports

Brexit: what impacts on European cosmetics companies? pro

The exit of the United Kingdom from the European Union, scheduled for May 29, 2019, counts among the hottest topical issues. Other than its political scope, Brexit will also impact the cosmetics industry. At the Perfumes & Cosmetics congress held in Chartres, France, on November 15-16, 2017, Emma Trogen (Cosmetics Europe ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
27 Nov. 2017 Congress reports

European Cosmetics Regulation: 10 topical issues (1/2) pro

The 15th annual Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress held in Chartres, France, last November 15-16, 2017, started with the traditional update on the latest European news, presented from the two different standpoints of the Commission and the industry. On the agenda of the presentations: claims, CMRs, nanomaterials, endocrine disruptors, allergens, microplastics, animal testing ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
22 Nov. 2017 Congress reports

Endocrine disruptors: an update on scientific knowledge (3/3) pro

At Cosmed’s 17th JEST, a day of scientific and technical exchanges held in Montpellier, France on September 29, and dedicated to critical cosmetic ingredients, toxicologist Alain Lombard made a complete update on what we know about endocrine disruptors. After dealing with the issues of definitions and identification criteria, as well as ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
21 Nov. 2017 Congress reports

Sustainability: a basic for the cosmetics industry pro

The notion of sustainable development involves multiple aspects conveyed very differently by companies. The last annual Sustainable Cosmetics Summit held in Paris in early November 2017 was an opportunity to make an update on what sustainability is for cosmetics today, and to show it is no longer a choice: committing to the ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
13 Nov. 2017 Congress reports

Social media’s real influence for cosmetics brands pro

Is creating accounts on social media essential for cosmetics brands? What type of influencers should they target, so consumers eventually buy a product they just glanced at at first? At a conference of the Cosmetic 360° show held in October in Paris, Garance Ferbeck, of the Harris Interactive market research ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
08 Nov. 2017 Congress reports

Endocrine disruptors: an update on scientific knowledge (2/3) pro

At Cosmed’s 17th JEST, a day of scientific and technical exchanges held in Montpellier, France on September 29, and dedicated to critical cosmetic ingredients this year, toxicologist Alain Lombard made a complete update on what we know about endocrine disruptors. After tackling the issue of definitions and identification criteria, he explained ...

Stefan Bures at the Naturkosmetik Branchencongress
31 Oct. 2017 Congress reports

Amazon: best cosmetics distributor? pro

Everyone knows our world, including our business world, is going more and more digital. Whether they sell cosmetics or not, brands can no longer afford to ignore this change. According to Stefan Bures, founder and Director of Metoda, a German company specialized in digital consulting, the course towards e-commerce necessarily ...

A représentation of exposome's factors
30 Oct. 2017 Congress reports

Think exposome: from its effects on the skin to the new actives to fight them pro

Though it is quite a recent concept, the exposome is about to revolutionize the cosmetics anti-aging approach. At least, that is what Pr. Jean Krutmann, of IUF (Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine), believes: as an expert in this field, he explained the different aspects of the exposome at the ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
24 Oct. 2017 Congress reports

Endocrine disruptors: an update on scientific knowledge (1/3) pro

Definitions, identification criteria, mechanisms of action, detection tests…: endocrine disruptors are at the core of many controversies that also affect the cosmetics industry. On September 29, in Montpellier, France, at Cosmed’s 17th annual JEST, a day of scientific and technical exchanges dedicated to critical ingredients, toxicologist Alain Lombard made a complete ...

23 Oct. 2017 Congress reports

One new customer a day in beauty salons: the keys to make it

All shopkeepers would like to boost their turnover by getting a stable, growing number of customers – including in the beauty industry. At the Beauty Forum show held in Paris last October 8-9, training expert Karen Leporini deciphered the founding pillars to help beauticians gain one new customer a day.

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
17 Oct. 2017 Congress reports

The global natural beauty market as seen by Euromonitor pro

The natural cosmetics trend is spreading all around the world, but with a few differences in terms of consumer perceptions and expectations, depending on the regions. At the 10th annual Naturkosmetik Branchencongress (a conference on natural cosmetics) held in Berlin, Germany, on September 26-27, 2017, Ildikó Szalai, of Euromonitor International, made ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
02 Oct. 2017 Congress reports

K-Beauty to capture Paris pro

The first edition of the K-Beauty in Paris show was held last September 22 by Kotra, a Korean trade promotion governmental agency. It gathered 22 brands from South Korea willing to introduce themselves to French investors or looking for distributors to enter the European market. They had brought their latest cosmetics & packaging innovations ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
19 Sept. 2017 Congress reports

Customizable cosmetics: regulatory prerequisites pro

At the 2017 Cosmed International Congress, Vanessa Picot, Cosmetics Inspector at ANSM, made an update on what ANSM has been working on and on the latest inspections, focusing on the ongoing campaign on customizable cosmetics. She also detailed the supervisory authorities’ expectations as regards the PIF and GMPs for these particular products.

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18 Sept. 2017 Congress reports

Cosmetics claims in China pro

All marketing departments dream about a ‘World’ claim that could be used the same way on all markets. And everyone knows how inaccessible this dream seems to be, and how delicate it is to choose the right words that will stick to a cosmetic product everywhere it is exported. To ...

11 Sept. 2017 Congress reports

Reconstructed skin: a new approach to cosmetics tests? pro

Already prohibited by the European Regulation in the cosmetics industry, animal testing is more and more disparaged and often criticized among the general public. Although giving up these protocols to switch to more ethical experimentation methods may prove complicated and costly, the first Inexo Symposium was held on July 7 in ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
06 Sept. 2017 Congress reports

Cosmetics claims in Russia pro

All marketing departments dream about a ‘World’ claim that could be used the same way on all markets. And everyone knows how inaccessible this dream seems to be, and how delicate it is to choose the right words that will stick to a cosmetic product everywhere it is exported. To ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
29 Aug. 2017 Congress reports

Safety assessment report: ANSM expectations (2/2) pro

On June 29, 2017, at the meeting organized by ANSM (French National Agency of Medicine and Health Products Safety), which gathered cosmetics safety assessors, the inspection Agency presented the non-conformities found in safety reports during their latest inspections, and explained which points are to be improved and which deviations are to ...

JS © CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
28 Aug. 2017 Congress reports

Cosmetics market and trends in Russia pro

Everyone knows the cosmetics industry is one of the most flourishing in the world. However, trends and consumers’ desires vary from one country to another. At the Cosmed International Congress organized on June 9, 2017, Business France provided an overview of the cosmetics landscape in different regions of the world. Our ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
26 July 2017 Congress reports

The three major trends impacting the cosmetics market – by Euromonitor pro

At the 2017 Cosmetics Europe Week, Ildiko Szalai, of Euromonitor, provided an overview of the cosmetics market condition on the global level. Beyond satisfactory overall results, the analyst highlighted the major impacting trends to identify lessons learnt and development prospects for cosmetics companies.

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
19 July 2017 Congress reports

Sun protection: should we go for an SPF100+? pro

SPF30, SPF50, SPF50+… A common assumption is that the protection they provide is not that different from what gross figures suggest. At the Sun Protection Conference held in London on June 6-7, 2017, Dr Joshua Williams, of Johnson & Johnson, went against this idea, presenting studies showing the advantages of ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
18 July 2017 Congress reports

Safety assessment report: ANSM expectations (1/2) pro

On June 29, 2017, at the meeting organized by ANSM (French National Agency of Medicine and Health Products Safety), which gathered cosmetics safety assessors, the inspection Agency presented the non-conformities found in safety reports during their latest inspections, and explained which points are to be improved and which deviations are to ...

17 July 2017 Congress reports

Babies do have a sensitive skin: Mustela proves it

Today, the notion of high skin sensitivity in adults is well-known, but in children, no study had demonstrated it so far. Out of almost 700,000 publications in the scientific literature on this type of epidermis, not a single one focuses on babies’ skin. And yet, more and more parents go ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
12 July 2017 Congress reports

Safety assessment: 0 deviation for 0 controversy? pro

On June 29, 2017, ANSM (French National Agency of Medicine and Health Products Safety) invited cosmetics safety assessors to their premises for an information and exchange meeting. It was an opportunity for both the supervisory authority and the industry to make an update and express their mutual expectations on a complex ...

12 July 2017 Congress reports

The importance of the environment in CSR

According to the European Union, Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is a ‘concept whereby companies integrate social and environmental concerns in their business operations and in their interaction with their stakeholders on a voluntary basis.’ The second edition of Rencontres du Bien-Être, a wellness congress organized by the FEBEA (French Federation ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
11 July 2017 Congress reports

Cosmetics: what consumers really think about them pro

When NGOs, consumer associations, or the general press talk about cosmetics, it is often to denounce the hazards associated with the use of certain ingredients. How are these alarmist messages received by those who use these products on a daily basis? How do consumers perceive their cosmetic products? That is ...

05 July 2017 Congress reports

When beauty and data become one

Customer data has been a real gold mine for companies for a few years. It represents significant trade and marketing advantages if it is efficiently used. Of course, the cosmetics industry is also concerned, since it gathers and processes considerable volumes of data. At the e-Beauty conference organized by Journal ...

CosmeticOBS - Observatoire des Cosmétiques
04 July 2017 Congress reports

No, anti-inflammatory ingredients do not have any impact on the SPF! pro

At the Sun Protection Conference held in London on June 6-7, 2017, Dr Ludger Kolbe, of Beiersdorf, provided scientific studies to respond to a recurring controversy in the field of sun protection: the influence of anti-inflammatory ingredients on the SPF determination and the skin’s erythemal response under the effect of ...