Tuesday, January 31, 2012Congresses

When "Allergen-free" is essential for essential oils

Huiles essentielles sans allergènes

“Allergen-free.” The mention is still frequently found on cosmetic labels, a sign of strong consumer demand and the willingness of manufacturers to try to provide answers. But how can we achieve this hypoallergenicity so prized when we are organic and/or when we work on our perfume compositions or active ingredient complexes with essential oils? This was the theme of the 13th session of the Matinales de la Cosmétique™, organized by Sylvain-Romain Cotte (SRC Consulting), which was held on 27 January 2011 in Paris.

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The problem is of crucial topicality. The qualification and attention of the participants at this breakfast between professionals largely testified to this. They came to listen to Dominique Davenne, General Manager of the Rosier Davenne laboratory, a specialist in fragrant creations and active ingredient complexes based on essential oils.
And the message he delivered to them was rather reassuring: yes, you can work with essential oils without having to extend your list of ingredients with a bunch of[allergens. And yes, in this case, we can even display some of the most popular cosmetic claims, from slimming to anti-ageing…

A little regulatory reminder

Allergens (or at least some of them) do not go completely unnoticed on the label of a cosmetic product. The regulations require that 26 of them, listed since 2003 in the Cosmetics Regulations, be mandatorily declared in the list of ingredients, as soon as they are present in finished products at more than 0.01% in rinse-off products and more than 0.001% in leave-on products.

Is this obligation relevant? Not necessarily, answered Dominique Davenne. Some substances that have been put on the spot have been found to be very non-allergenic… while others that are not on this list certainly …

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