In the field of cosmetics, heavy metals are unfailingly associated with the notion of technically inevitable traces… although they are to be reduced to the minimum. Still, the question remains as to how to identify them and measure their content in formulas. These issues were at the core of the presentation made at the Chartres regulatory congress last November 16-17, 2016, by Laurence Garnier, who is responsible for all analytical entities of the L’Oréal Group in France and around the world.
‘Heavy metals raise an extremely complex issue, because we cannot mention them without talking about expertise and detailing the technique associated,’ Laurence Garnier warned straight away. And yet, it did not prevent her from introducing her topic in a crystal-clear manner. She started by reiterating its context and challenges.
Minerals and beauty
There is tangible evidence that minerals have been used in cosmetics for centuries. For example, we have found blushes, gypsum or malachite powders, or natural ochres in tombs dating back to the Ancient times… The lack of scientific knowledge at that time resulted in the use of minerals that were natural, indeed, but also extremely toxic: galena is no other than lead sulphide in Egyptian khols, and antimony or mercury were used pure for centuries. As for ceruse, which was very popular in the romanticism era to whiten the complexion, it was only banned in 1915…
‘It is a heavy legacy we have inherited, and it is a source of confusion as regards the ingredients used today,’
Laurence Garnier emphasized. She went on giving the example of ochres, natural iron oxides, or bauxite, which provide a bit of naturalness to makeup, or synthetic minerals, for their spectacular optical …
