Cosmetics brands have been focusing for some time on the imperfections of adult skin (one in two women in France according to A-Derma). Acne is always the first reason to consult a dermatologist, as well as the most important sales of face care products in pharmacies. Imperfections (hear buttons but the word is reserved for pharmacies and PP visas) are still a problem for many women, even after adolescence. We know that they are accentuated after a solar exposure which can generate an improvement in the short term but an amplified resurgence thereafter. Thickened skin, dilated pores, pimples, irregular complexion, excess sebum… combination or oily skins are not at the party in September! The novelty is that if before, the care which was intended for them were classified in a category a little"catch-all" (the normal to mixed skins), in the autumn the marks separate more and more clearly the rebalancing lines for the mixed skins and the purifying ranges for the oily skins with acneic tendency. One constant however: the treatments, more and more physiological, preserve for the most part the cutaneous ecosystem, without altering the precious microbiota, the new buzzword which designates the whole of the micro-organisms which our body shelters (bacteria, yeasts, mushrooms). Basically, these new treatments respect the natural balance between good and"bad" bacteria.

Rebalancing ranges mainly organic

The rebalancing ranges focus on combating the lighter skin imperfections of combination skin (blackheads, dilated pores, irregular skin texture, areas of shine on the midline and areas of tightness on the cheeks, temples, eye and lip contours). They are heavily invested by certified organic cosmetics brands. The start was given by the Magnifica range to Sanoflore's organic peppermint totum, launched last March. It is now the turn of Bio-Beauté by Nuxe to launch next October a rebalancing range with cranberry extract: Rebalancing Cleansing Jelly, 200 ml, 11.90 €; Smoothing Rebalancing Lotion, 200 ml, 10.30 €; Multi-Corrector Rebalancing Care, 40 ml, 13.90 €. Thanks to a new probiotic-like" plant complex (composed of extracts of cranberry, almond and a specific hyaluronic acid, which acts as a"signal activating the cutaneous immune system"), the care restores the cutaneous flora and reduces excess sebum (zinc and salicylic acid), while hydrating the epidermis (seaweed and aloe vera). Sweet (the cleansing gel is sulfate free, the lotion is formulated without alcohol, with distilled peppermint water, the treatment contains mattifying rice powder) and pleasant (with an unusual violet scent), this range also offers affordable prices.

Two certified organic brands persist in the"combination to oily skin" category: Cattier and Fleurance Nature. The first offers 3 light, rebalancing and moisturizing treatments in September: Vague de Pureté, Gel Nettoyant Rééquilibrant visage, 200 ml, 11,45 €; Ondée Merveilleuse, Lotion Micellaire Rééquilibrante visage-yeux- lips, 200 ml, 10,95 €; Silk Lactée, Serum Matifiant Rééquilibrant, 30 ml, 18,95 €. The cleansing gel gently removes dead cells thanks to its papaya enzymes. Micellar lotion regulates excess sebum thanks to zinc and an active ingredient derived from a marine micro-organism (Epidermist). Serum protects the skin ecosystem (Bioecolia™). The treatments contain an algae extract that reduces skin reactivity, tightens pores and fights their blockage, as well as regulating and softening hazelnut oil. Fleurance Nature presents a new range of 4 treatments with sebum-regulating burdock (plant extract and floral water): Purifying cleansing gel, 150 ml, 10.90 € ; Anti-perfection emulsion 30 ml, 13.20 € ; Hydra-matifying fluid 40 ml, 14.90 € and even a light anti-aging cream, 40 ml, 21.50 €. Anti-shine, these treatments refine the skin texture (salicylic acid of natural origin) and again offer light, non-comedogenic and moisturizing textures (shea butter, aloe vera…). The brand has selected an organic burdock extract obtained by zeodratation, an innovative low-temperature extraction process that produces a concentration of active molecules 5 to 10 times higher than conventional extracts.

Purifying ranges for oily skin with acneic tendency

Here, we are clearly in the dermo-cosmetic field and the brands of the Pierre Fabre group are leaving massively to attack this type of skin in September. Avene, in the first place, with Cleanance Expert Care-Emulsion Blackhead Buttons, 40 ml, 12 €. Its originality: a selective formula that concentrates its anti-imperfections action on the affected areas, respecting the healthy areas that it mattifies and moisturizes. A physiological response on the three components of acne: hyperseborrhea, hyperkeratinization and inflammation. A papaya extract allows an enzymatic exfoliation, precise and controlled, which thickens the skin and prevents the formation of blackheads. As for Diolenyl®, a patented Pierre Fabre exclusive, it creates a molecular decoy to limit the proliferation of the bacteria. P.acnes Reduce redness and promote the elimination of pimples, only where the skin needs them.

Also in September, A-Derma is offering a range of four products (two cleansers and two skin care products) for acne-prone skin, which obviously contain the brand's essential active ingredient: Rhealba® oat seedlings. Phys-AC Purifying Foaming Gel (200 ml, 7.10 € or 400 ml, 11.90 €) is formulated with a physiological pH of 5.5 and the same surfactants as those used in baby products. Phys-AC Purifying Micellar Water for face & eyes (200 ml, 9,10 €) removes make-up even from waterproof make-up. Its sebo-absorbent micelles also preserve hydration (vegetable glycerin attached to each micelle and glutamic acid from sugar cane). Phys-AC Global Severe Imperfections Care (40 ml, 10.20 €) promotes the elimination of blackheads and pimples, while mattifying (9% AHA and BHA with extended release thanks to a lamellar structure that limits irritation). Phys-AC Hydra Compensating Cream (40 ml, €9.50) soothes, moisturizes and compensates for the effects of drying medical treatments. Here again, softness, tolerance and pleasure of use (fresh and comfortable textures, mimosa fragrance). Finally, still at Pierre Fabre, Galénic has just released, in its Cauterets line with pure Cauterets water, an anti-imperfection Elixir (30 ml, 24.65 €) that tightens pores.

Ariane Le Febvre