In a press release published on 23 January 2025, French Anses confirmed that glyoxylic acid, used in hair straightening products, can cause acute kidney failure. The Agency recommends that a risk assessment be carried out under the European Cosmetics Regulation to decide on a restriction or even a ban on this substance.
The first alert on glyoxylic acid was issued in March 2024 by a team of French researchers, relayed by the Académie de Médecine.
The Anses (French National Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health and Safety), which is now in charge of assessing cosmetic substances and cosmetovigilance in France, took up the issue in June 2024 and launched an expert appraisal to assess the current state of knowledge on the renal toxicity of glyoxylic acid applied to hair, and to document a proposal for changes to European regulatory provisions in order to provide an appropriate framework for the use of this substance.
Toxicity confirmed
After analysing the available scientific data, the Agency confirms that glyoxylic acid is “very likely to cause acute renal failure”.
Since October 2024 (date of the first Anses communication on this subject), four new cases have been reported to the national cosmetovigilance system.
In its recent opinion, the Anses states that it has concluded that undesirable effects caused by glyoxylic acid can probably be attributed to the practice of “Brazilian” hair straightening.
Risk assessment at European level
The Anses points out that this substance has not been assessed by the SCCS (European Scientific Committee …
