CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Dec. 5, 2013Focus on French Launches

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The Observatory of Cosmetics

It is the new name of these lifting and firming treatments that do not support the deep throats but the ovals… of the faces! Tight focus on the week's cosmetic news by Ariane Le Febvre.

Reading time : ~ 5 minutes

"After hydration, firmness is the world's second demand for facial care." says Flore des Robert, General Manager France Crème de la Mer, who launches on January 20 a Lifting Contour Serum (30 ml, 265 €), for the entire face and neck, and a Lifting Zones Serum (15 ml, 135 €), for targeted areas. Until the end of March 2014 a lifting and firming mask (Lifting and Firming Mask, 190 €).

Inspired by the"Shape Creation" (shape means shape and by extension model), these treatments combine density and definition (that of the oval which becomes more precise). When the restructuring action is combined with a tightening effect and a feeling of support, it is even better!

The new firmness

In 2014, firmness is almost always accompanied by a"lift" effect. We expect a surge of this word (or the word"facelift") in the first quarter of next year. But the lift effects today have nothing to do with the feeling of discomfort or"pasteboard" felt before. Comfort is at the rendezvous and is enriched by an impression of"repositioning" of the features. Like push-up bras, the new firming treatments shape and lift the face, creating an invisible"mesh" on the epidermis. Overall, most offer the same action, allowing the skin to produce more protein. As a result, it"holds" better.

After Mary Cohr and her Firming Lifting Serum with Dermostimulins extracted from passion fruit (30 ml, 55 €), Chanel launches on January 14 a cream which is simply entitled Le Lift (50 ml, 107 €). In three different textures: normal, rich, fine. Chanel Research has highlighted the impact of certain miRs (small RNA fragments) that act as chemical"switches" on the skin's youth proteins, resulting in a morphological modification of tissues. After identifying a plant active capable of regulating these miRs (Edulis), the luxury brand creates a powerful antioxidant molecule that promotes the production of youth proteins and"lifts" the features.

The same goes for Darphin, which in March 2014 is reformulating its premium anti-ageing Stimulskin Plus range with an Indian redensifying and plumping resin (extract of Commiphora Mukul) for the"push" action and a firming and lifting alga from the Philippines (Sea Emerald™ or sea emerald) for the"up" action! The latter promotes the anchoring of the epidermis on the dermis and encourages the production of collagen (Divine Remodeling Serum, 30 ml, 199 €; Divine Multi-Correction Cream, 50 ml, 185 €, in two textures; Divine Eye Cream, 15 ml, 87 €).

Other architectural treatments, those of the Merveillance Expert range from Nuxe, from January (Merveillance Expert Serum, Wrinkle lift concentrate installed, 30 ml, 39.90 €; Merveillance Expert Yeux, Contour des yeux liftant rides installées, 15 ml, 29 €). Here, it is an extract of Lily of a Day that fills, firms and tightens the skin of forty-year-olds. By studying the accelerated ageing of the skin of diabetics, Nuxe Research has looked more closely at the glycation of dermal proteins and has highlighted a key protein, little explored in cosmetics, on which the integrity of skin architecture depends: vimentin. This plays a major role in the tensioning of the fibres. Oléoactif de Lys d'un Jour (ecological extraction which does not use any chemical process) offers a double anti-glycation and deglycation action, both protective and repairing, which acts on the 3 key proteins of the dermis: collagen, elastin and vimentin.

And the lift effects have not finished making people talk about them. Next spring, Lancôme will announce a treatment called"French Lift" that we will talk about again…

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics

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