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Thursday, October 29, 2015Focus on French Launches

The awakening of the night cream

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

With the phenomenon of the Korean Sleeping pack, she was a little bit in the background of cosmetics, not to say that she had taken a serious blow of old. But now a few innovative launches are putting night cream back in the spotlight. More sensory, it seduces again!

Reading time
~ 7 minutes

Only one woman in two uses a night cream (Source Beauty Tracks 2012 France, women aged 15 to 75). If the younger generations consider it obsolete and too rich, preferring it more formulas fun and innovative (night cream masks have reached their target !), older, and especially mature skin, they plebiscite. Indispensable to compensate for the water loss at night, where the skin loses four times more water than during the day, and to boost the cellular regeneration that takes place during sleep, the night cream had some sensory efforts and originality to accomplish. Lighter and refreshing, it reinvents itself this fall with added values such as radiance, oxygenation, detox (increasing) and especially anti-fatigue action. Women know that sleeping makes you more beautiful. But, hyperactive and connected non-stop, they sleep less and less, and more and more badly, Lancôme tells us. Subjected to too short nights, the skin does not recover as well. Traits drawn, faded complexion, wrinkled skin, pillow marks… the tiredness that women read on their faces when they wake up does not predispose them to good mood! To"enchant the awakening", the rose brand proposes Visionnaire Nuit Beauty Sleep Perfector (50 ml, 85 €), a night cream with an oil-gel texture that promises smoothing, elasticity and radiance. In the same vein, L'Oréal Paris is launching Sublimist Recuperative anti-fatigue balm"nuit courtes" (50 ml, 12.40 €), a"Baume Récupérateur anti-fatigue" (50 ml, 12.40 €), and a"Baume Récupérateur" (50 ml, 12.40 €). balm that reproduces the visible benefits of a night's sleep "It increases the night recovery capacity and improves skin quality. The brand goes so far as to claim that"the the skin looks more beautiful as if the night had been two hours longer! ".

Multi-tasking anti-ageing care…

If a woman can do at least four things at once, her care must also be in tune! This is the case with these new night creams which are anti-aging complete, acting on all fronts: wrinkles, relaxation, hyperpigmentation, radiance… Like Clinique : Clinique Smart Nuit, Custom Action Repair Cream (50 ml, 72 € or 30 ml, 40 €, available in three formulas for dry to very dry, dry to combination or combination to oily skin). Or Suprême Jeunesse Nuit, Payot's global youth refill (50 ml, 95 €), Nuxuriance Ultra Nuit Cream, Nuxe Global Anti-Aging Redensifying Cream (50 ml, 43 €), or PhysioLift Nuit Baume Lissant Régénérant d'Avène (30 ml, 31,90 €). Nectar with 8 Flowers Cream-Darphin Oil (30 ml, 80 €) offers a surprising hybrid texture (a balm that melts into oil on the skin). StriVectin's High Performance Night Care with Retinol (50 ml, 92 €), also a global anti-aging treatment, recharges the skin with water (hyaluronic acid), lipids (shea butter), proteins (retinol) and micronutrients (copper tripeptides).

… sometimes very luxurious

Along with serum, night cream is often the most expensive care in anti-aging ranges. You'll really have to break your piggy bank with these four premium treatments. Supremÿa Baume La Nuit (50 ml, 500 €), a very comfortable version of Sisley's great anti-ageing balm, designed for naturally dry to very dry skin, in anticipation of frost. L'Essence de Nuit Revitalisante Orchidée Impériale by Guerlain (more accessible: 125 ml, 195 €) focuses on purification and energy, in a"cellular detox" spirit. Every day, Guerlain reports, thousands of pollutants penetrate the skin, forming toxic groups called"carbonyl groups", which asphyxiate it and prevent it from implementing its natural regeneration mechanisms. This essence, the first specific night care in the Orchidée Impériale range, aims to"cleanse" the skin of these toxic groups, protect the mitochondrial network and boost skin energy. Same fight for Shin'ya de Perlanesse (50 ml, 169 €) which means"in the night" in Japanese. This certified organic cream regenerates, moisturizes and"recharges" the skin's batteries. The brand also offers Yume ("the dream"), a nourishing and revitalizing night serum that boosts the effectiveness of creams (20 ml, 149 €). Another night serum, small price this one: Cellular Radiance Complexion Serum Perfection de Nivea, formulated to correct pigment spots (40 ml, 14.50 €).

The most original creations

To feel like using a night cream, you also need a result that jumps out at you the next morning! It is the case of Wake Wonderful Soin Magnifiant de Nuit by Ren Skincare (40 ml, 40 €), the care which makes a beautiful skin with the alarm clock, a little like after a care in institute. Thanks to a combination of fruit acids and enzymes, it exfoliates without aggressiveness and smoothes the skin surface. A complex of glycogen and magnesium accelerates blood microcirculation, oxygenates the complexion and restores tone to the skin. Finally, sodium lactate acts as a moisturizing mask. It plumps the skin and illuminates the complexion. It also raises the pH of the skin which has been lowered by fruit acids. The idea came to Colette Haydon, Ren's director of development, because when she burns herself with an acid in the lab, she raises the pH of the skin with sodium lactate. After only one night, skin radiance is improved by 40%. It is a treatment that is not used every evening, but two or three evenings a week (all skin types, except sensitive). Finally, special mention goes to the first hybrid texture of certified organic cosmetics, that of Rosa Angelica Sanoflore Night Dew Balm (50 ml, 30 €). This galenic balm-en-gel, as smooth and comforting as a balm but intensely fresh when it"breaks" in contact with the heat of the skin, is, in fact, the first"quick break like" texture of organic cosmetics. It changes from a solid to a liquid state, from a consistent cream to water droplets on the skin. No greasy or sticky feel, high penetration and exquisite freshness. Trapped by mica, the Totum of Rosa Damascena Bio allows a real"hydration bath" throughout the night. According to Claire Pelé, Head of Scientific Communication Sanoflore," c his feat was possible thanks to mica, which are not exploited here for their"light" but"architectural" properties. . Indeed, in contact with aqueous elements, their leaves swell, creating a three-dimensional network with water and white beeswax. This physical organization offers a"house of cards" structure that offers extreme sensoriality, freshness and immediate hydration. We invented this architecture because acrylic polymers, which usually make it possible to obtain it in conventional cosmetics, are obviously prohibited in organic cosmetics. The entanglement of micas offers the same result as conventional gelling agents." . A big first!

Last minute: new night treatments are announced at Vichy, La Roche-Posay and Sanoflore in the 1st quarter of 2016. So we see that the trend continues in 2016…

Ariane Le Febvre

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