Thursday, June 12, 2014Focus on French Launches

Solar in the mist...

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Sprays and aerosols largely dominate the summer market, bringing a fresh wind on sun protection (but also on after-sun). Let's face it, this summer, mists don't count for plums!

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According to Nivea (source: IRI Panel, Total HMSM, CAM P13 2013 in value sales), the spray is the market's leading format and has been acclaimed by consumers. Most of the major solar energy players, the L'Oréal group in the lead (with its Garnier Ambre Solaire, Mixa, L'Oréal Paris, Vichy, La Roche-Posay, Biotherm, Lancôme, etc. brands), but also Nivea, Bioderma, Avène, Nuxe, Clarins, Yves Rocher, and a few new"entrants" such as Algotherm, Noreva and Payot, are therefore offering us this packaging in their 2014 launches. Perfect for quick and easy application, light and refreshing as well as invisible, the mists play the discreet bodyguards (because it is to the body that they mainly address). They can contain fine milky emulsions (for aerosols) or oil textures (for sprays), but what counts above all is the pleasure of the"vaporizing" gesture, perceived as"pleasing" by the general public. We know that the pleasure of use is the key to regularly renewed applications. At this level, the mist wins the palm! Sensory, they metamorphose the constraint protection into hedonistic gesture.

Alcohol suppression in many aerosols

Until then, solar mist owed its feeling of freshness to alcohol, an ingredient that one would rather not see in a cosmetic product, but even less in a sun product (the sun weakens the skin enough like that, it's really not worth adding to it by drying it a little more!). The latest creations are, for the most part, formulated without. More hydrating, rich in glycerin, thermal water, hyaluronic acid, emollient agents… they reconcile high protection, matte finish, soft and powdery (thanks to mineral powders anti-sebum and anti-humidity: pearlite, silica…) and"bare skin sensation". Really imperceptible on the skin, they offer practicality (especially on the back), simplicity and speed of use. Aerosols highlight the Japanese system of the shaka-shaka (ball). It supposes to shake well before use (one must hear the sound of the ball). Among these: Dry Mist SPF 20, 30 or 50 Garnier Amber Solar (aerosol 200 ml, 12.40 €) ; Sun Capital Invisible Moisturizing Mist SPF 30 or 50 Vichy (aerosol 200 ml, 20.80 €) ; Solar Mist Dry Touch SPF 30 or 50 Biotherm (aerosol 200 ml, 28.20 €) ; Velvety Spray Monoï High Protection Body SPF 50 Polysianes Klorane (aerosol 150 ml, 18 €).

Sprays, more ecological

No environmentally unfriendly propellant gas, or strict instructions for use with sprays. Most allow head down diffusion. They are available in two textures: fine milks or oils. They're taking the lion's share again this summer! Again, the majority do not contain alcohol, except Nivea Sun (Protect & Refresh Refresh Refreshing Protective Spray SPF 50, 200 ml, €12.99 (also available in SPF 30, €12.49 and SPF 20, €12) and Dr. Pierre Ricaud (SPF 50 Body Freshening Spray, 120 ml spray, €30).

In the form of oils…

The oils allow to wrap the body (but also, often, the hair) with a wide and slippery gesture, fast. Among the new features: Sublime Sun, Mythic Tanning Advanced High Protection Dry Oil SPF 50 L'Oréal Paris (spray 150 ml, 13.90 €) ; Face and Body High Protection Tanning Oil SPF 30 Nuxe Sun (spray 150 ml, 22.95 €) ; Anthelios Nutritive Comfort Oil SPF 30 La Roche-Posay (spray 200 ml, 22.80 €) Satin Protective Oil SPF 30 Protectyl Végétal Yves Rocher (spray 150 ml, 25 €) ; High Protection Sun Oil SPF 30 from Avène (spray 200 ml, 19.90 €), formulated without octocrylene (a highly allergenic synthetic filter) ; Protective Smoothing Oil SPF 15 Lancôme (spray 200 ml, 36 €) ; Sun Sensi Protective Anti-Aging Oil SPF 15 Body and Hair Payot (spray 125 ml, 29 €). Clarins UVA/UVB 30 Filtration, a dry oil enriched with a nourishing elixir based on an Indonesian tree extract: nyamplung (Body and Hair Beautifying Sun Spray, 150 ml, 27,50 €). Another original oil, that of Algotherm, which claims no nanoparticles, no chemical filters listed, no phenoxyethanol. Based on mineral screens, seaweed (Porphyra umbilicalis), karanja oil and monoï, it respects the oceans (notably coral) and is supported by Thalassa, the magazine of the sea on France 3 (cl, spray 100 ml, 25 €).

… or emulsions

Garnier Ambre Solaire offers sprays that can be applied to wet skin (Wet Skin Spray protective body SPF 20 or 30, spray 200 ml, €12.40). But it was Lancaster that pioneered this type of product last summer. The hydrophobic formula, instantly absorbed, creates a very water-resistant film, without leaving white marks. No need to dry off after each swim, but also during intense sports where you sweat a lot. The men will appreciate it! For its part, Noreva innovates with its Gradual UV or Photo-adaptive Technology range, which contains a powerful antioxidant complex (Melan-Ox 24, astaxanthin-based) that adapts to the intensity of sunlight. It continues to act after sun exposure by neutralizing free radicals linked to cellular metabolism. Lightened in chemical filters (Melan-Ox 24 boosts the sun filters by limiting their degradation and reinforces their effectiveness), this line is intended for the sensitive skins of adults and children (Spray Very High Protection face and body SPF 50+ or 30, spray 125 ml, 16,95 €). A sensation material, Lancôme's Smoothing Protective Milk SPF 30 (spray 200 ml, 36 €) is enriched with hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, argan, monoï and musky rose oils. As for Yves Rocher's Spray Zero Trace High Protection SPF 30 Protectyl Végétal (spray 150 ml, 25 €), its aphloïa leaves from Madagascar (sustainable production chain) ensure effective cellular protection. Photoderm LEB SPF 30 High Protection Solar Allergy Spray from Bioderma (spray 125 ml, 13.85 €) protects from Summer Lucite Benign (due to a powerful and instantaneous flow of UVA), notably thanks to a UVA/UVB 30/30 ratio. And for the very light skins of children and adults, the SPF 30 Sun Spray optimal tolerance face and body of Mixa Solaire Peau Sensible combines organic and mineral filters (spray 200 ml, 13,50 € - 13,95 € for SPF 50+).

After-sun"fire extinguishers"

Here again, aerosols (Photoderm After-Sun SOS Soothing Mist Intense Bioderma, 125 ml, 10.10 € ; After-Sun Soothing Mist Sun Sensi After Sun Payot, 125 ml, 27 €) or sprays (Algosun Sublime After-Sun Repairing Oil Body & Spray) can be used; Algotherm hair spray 100 ml, 25 €) can calm, moisturize, soothe, without the need to spread or massage for a long time (which warmed skin appreciates only moderately!).).

Ariane Le Febvre

Note the following

Whatever the trends driven by brands, sun protection is a sensitive subject for cosmetics. The toxicological safety of many synthetic filters or nanoparticles on mineral screens is still a matter of debate.

To help consumers make an informed choice before choosing sun protection, the Observatoire des Cosmétiques recently published two articles. • How to choose your sun cream? takes stock of the controversies and criteria that should guide the choice of a sun protection product, and includes the selection of the best made by experts. • Nanos in the sun? Yes! But… no! Although… explains how organic products, in which nanoparticles are banned, contain labelled ingredients[nano]. Have a good read!

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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