Monday, January 17, 2011Cosmetics glossary



Label created in 2008 by the European Natural and Organic Cosmetics Interest Grouping, a group of manufacturers of natural and organic cosmetic products, including mainly those of the German cosmetics association IKW (Laverana/Lavera, Logocos/Logona, Primavera, Santaverde, WALA/Dr. Hauschka, Weleda). It is granted to a product after a review of a dossier submitted by the manufacturer and an audit carried out by a certifier of the organisation, intended to verify its compliance with the requirements of the “NaTrue Natural Cosmetics” standard.

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The first principle of the NaTrue standard is that only natural, nature-identical raw materials (derived from synthesis, but identical to those found in the nature) and transformed from natural origin, are allowed. It also lists the processes accepted for manufacture, provides for minimum levels of ingredients of natural origin and maximum levels of processed substances in finished products, and defines criteria for packaging that must be as limited as possible, recyclable and designed, as far as possible, for multiple use.

By natural substance, it means substances of botanical, inorganic or animal mineral origin (excluding dead vertebrate animals) or resulting from mixtures or reactions between the same substances, all exclusively derived from renewable raw materials. Only natural fragrances and essential oils are allowed. The surfactants used must be fully biodegradable.

For conservation, six synthetic “nature-identical” molecules are allowed: benzoic, formic, propionic, salicylic and sorbic acids, as well as benzyl alcohol.

For processing, chemical reactions are permitted: hydrolysis (including saponification), neutralization, condensation with water removal, esterification, transesterification, hydrogenation, glycosidation, phosphorylation, sulfation, acylation, amidation and oxidation (with oxygen, ozone and peroxides). Ionization treatments or the use of chlorine chemistry are prohibited.

Three levels of requirements are planned:
Natural Cosmetics
The product must meet all the general requirements defined by the standard and comply with the minimum levels of natural substances and maximum levels of processed substances d´origine natural, defined for each category of cosmetics.

Natural cosmetics, partly organic
In addition to the general requirements defined by the standard, the product must contain at least 15% natural substances that are not chemically modified and a maximum of 15% transformed substances of natural origin.

Organic Cosmetics
In addition to the general requirements defined by the standard, the product must contain at least 20% of substances chemically unmodified natural substances and a maximum of 15% of transformed substances of natural origin.

On the labels, after the first attempt at a logo differentiating these different levels using stars, a single logo now appears on NaTrue-labelled products, possibly with a statement specifying its status:
Natural for Natural Cosmetics
With Organic for Cosmetics, partly organic
Organanic for Organic Cosmetics

To go further
• See the NaTrue website

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