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Thursday, September 3, 2015Focus on French Launches

The word Lift is essential in anti-aging

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Praised by women, Lift becomes the new code name to summarize global anti-aging, the one that acts as well on wrinkles as on firmness! Synonymous with the re-tensioning of fabrics and immediate effects, it is adopted by many cosmetic brands that are devoting complete ranges to it this September.

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You don't find him so new? It is true that the term has been around for a long time, but until now it has been synonymous with skin care with a tensor effect and a"cardboard feeling" that is not really pleasant! What is (new) is that the Lift becomes the password to say anti-aging and now rhymes with comfort. Each brand combines it"in its own way": Le Lift quite simply for Chanel, Lift & Repair for Esthederm, Liftiane for SVR, PhysioLift for Avène, Resveratrol Lift for Caudalie, Norelift Chrono-Filler for Laboratoires Noreva, RevitaLift for L'Oréal Paris, not to mention Lift'Argan (Léa Nature group), which has made it its brand signature… For women who fear the sensation of"pulled skin", reassure themselves, the lift effects today provide a sensation of"held skin" and sheathed, of"epidermal mesh", comparable to a stretch fabric that moulds the skin. Comforting, anti-wrinkle and firming, the new Lift treatments are now sensory time!

A first intention

Before going through cosmetic medicine or surgery, women over 40 (skin sagging rarely occurs before) will first turn to cosmetics Lift effect. Of course, there is the idea of the lifting effect, which clearly refers to surgery, even if the consumers are not fooled. On the other hand, they are fond of care with instant results. This is what Lift is all about (it evokes an immediate re-tensioning of the tissues) and it must be acknowledged that this is the case with most new treatments. The tensor effect is perceived right from the application, the contours of the face gain a new definition. This surface action is accompanied by a lasting smoothing effect and stimulation of all the skin's support proteins (collagen, elastin, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid, etc.), as at Esthederm, which is enriching its Lift & Lift range; Repair of a balm dedicated to thin faces, hollowed out by fatigue or weight loss (Baume Absolu Repulp, 50 ml, 85 €), in a high nutrition texture with a velvety touch and a mat finish (the brand already has a specific formula for round faces : Lift & Repair Smoothing Absolute Cream, 50 ml, 85 €). All in synergy with a cabin treatment: the Lifting Manuel Esthelift (90 minutes, 95 €) which redraws the oval, acting as well on wrinkles as on volumes and contours. Presented as a new stage between traditional cosmetics and aesthetic medicine, it is intended for women who back away from (or refuse) injections. The same fight for DR Docteur Renaud who accompanies his Lift Iris range (latest creation: Pore Lift Iris Reducing Gel-Cream, 50 ml, 46,90 €) with a new firming youth care in an institute. In its Le Lift line, which promotes the production of youthful proteins thanks to edulis roots cultivated above ground, Chanel has just launched two new sophisticated treatments, a cocoon mask whose texture is transformed into silky massage oil (Le Lift, Toning Massage Mask, 50 ml, 75 €) and an eye contour treatment that takes care of sagging eyelids, a growing demand (Le Lift, Instant Smoothing Eye Concentrate, 15 ml, 80 €). Lift serums are popular at Sephora (Laser Fx Lift Serum by Dr. Brandt, 30 ml, 78 €), as well as at Marionnaud (Lift Suprem Sérum Lifting AF², 30 ml, 29, 90 €). Revitalift de L'Oréal Paris celebrates its 20th anniversary with 2 new products: Revitalift Light Texture Moisturising Care and Revitalift SPF 30 Day Moisturising Care (each 50 ml, €11.40).

The Lift seizes the dermocosmetic

In the pharmacy too, we are witnessing a real invasion of the word Lift! The festivities begin in September with Caudalie and her new Resveratrol Lift range which combines vine resveratrol and a complex of two micro hyaluronic acids to encourage cells to make their own hyaluronic acid (we know that this is a large molecule with low absorption and, according to Martine Baspeyras, a dermatologist in Bordeaux). at 40, we've already lost 50% of our hyaluronic acid! "). Four new treatments come out at once, replacing the Vinexpert line : Firming Serum (30 ml, 45 €) ; Regard Liftant Balm (15 ml, 34 €) ; Redensifying Liftant Fluid SPF 20 (40 ml, 37 €) and Night Herbal Tea Cream (50 ml, 37 €), now in a jar but ". without preservatives "hastens to specify the brand! Then comes the Liftiane range from the SVR Dermatological Laboratory, very similar to the previous one since it is also based on a synergy of resveratrol (here extracted from the Japanese knotweed in its Trans form,"…).  7 times more antioxidant than the Cis form usually used "according to SVR) and two hyaluronic acids of high and average molecular weight ! They can be found in 4"architect" treatments: Liftiane Serum, Sérum liftant intense (30 ml, 29.50 €) ; Liftiane Crème, Soin de filler antirides firmness (40 ml, 26.50 €, 2 textures: fine or rich) ; Liftiane Soin yeux et lèvres (15 ml, 22 €). Then it's the turn of Noreva Laboratories and the Norelift Chrono-Filler range (Intensive anti-wrinkle tensor serum, 15 ml, 35 € ; Anti-wrinkle tensor day care for normal to combination skin or normal to dry skin, 30 ml, 28,80 € ; Anti-wrinkle regenerating smoothing night cream, 40 ml, 32,30 € ; Anti-wrinkle tensor eye and lip care, 10 ml, 24,50 €). Here again, we find hyaluronic acid of low cross-linked molecular weight, nourishing ceramides, antioxidant and anti-glycation active ingredients and a phytobioactive with a"retinoid-like" effect that stimulates desquamation for a luminous complexion. Finally, in mid-October Avène will offer PhysioLift (range which replaces Eluage) with five new treatments : PhysioLift Precision Filler for deep furrows and marked wrinkles (airless pipette pen 15 ml, 33,10 €) ; PhysioLift Day Smoothing Emulsion (30 ml, 30,50 €) PhysioLift Day Smoothing Cream (30 ml, 30,50 €) PhysioLift Night Smoothing Balm (30 ml, 31,90 €) and PhysioLift Eyes (15 ml, 28,50 €). Their effectiveness is based on a trio of active ingredients with ideal measurements: Ascofillin, which strengthens the skin structure, hyaluronic acid mono-oligomers which induce the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid and retinaldehyde which recharges the skin with vitamin A. The originality is to have identified for each active ingredient an ideal size (molecular weight) that maximizes their diffusion in the skin and their recognition by skin cells.

A word which makes school…

And Lift is not only used in anti-aging facial care. You can also find it in products as diverse as nail bases (Nailift La Base, Base Soin Perfectrice et Protecrice by Guerlain, 10 ml, 24 €) or hair rejuvenation protocols in hair salons (Le face lift Capillaire by Jordy Brechkoff, 60 €)! And guess what's in it: hyaluronic acid! Let us bet that the word Lift can be declined in all the sectors of beauty as soon as one claims an anti-ageing promise…

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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